86 
ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
CHAP. 
way to camp we were charged by a rhino. I was obliged to 
give it a shot in self-defence, which turned it off. “ Papa ” 
scooted like lightning and then cried out, much to my amuse¬ 
ment. He laughed as heartily himself afterwards, and used to 
imitate the way he had screamed and make fun of his own 
discomfiture. It is certainly unpleasant to be charged by a 
great snorting brute in the dark. My cook was gratified with 
a huge mass of fat from round the eland’s heart, which kept 
his frying-pan supplied for some time. 
As we neared the Lorogi Mountains the vegetation, which 
farther back had been parched, gradually became greener, and 
near the foot of the range was perfectly spring-like. The 
quantity of muddy water in the Seya River, too, showed that 
much rain was falling on the hills, and the summits were often 
capped with heavy clouds, some of the showers from which 
often reached the low country below. The air too felt quite 
different, a pleasant softness showing a moister atmosphere ; 
indeed, we seemed to have got into another and much 
pleasanter climate than the excessively dry one of the open 
country behind. I made my camp on the El Bogoi, a pleasant 
little clear stream, a few miles from the foot of the range, and 
at once sent back two-thirds of my men to fetch more food 
from Laiju, intending to wait here for their return (which I 
expected in about twenty days) and then push on to Donyo le 
Nyiro (Mt. Nyiro), near the south end of Lake Rudolph, which 
I had been informed was the best district for elephants. 
Without donkeys I knew I could not do any good farther 
north than that. I trusted to luck to my camp being pitched 
in a suitable neighbourhood ; and, though I did no good there 
at that time, it eventually proved to be about as advantageous 
a position as I could have chosen in the district. 
It took us a couple of days to find the Ndorobos of this 
district, but I afterwards got to be great friends with them. 
They showed me where to look for game, as there was 
none close about, and if I shot more than I needed to 
