8 
ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
CHAP. 
stances might seem to make desirable. I ventured to disregard 
advice to take the Tana River route—involving a sea voyage, a 
fresh organisation, and a journey through difficult and unhealthy 
“ fly ’’-infested bush all the way, with little useful help from 
canoes (which could not take animals) against the stream—and 
elected for the overland one through Northern Ukambani. 
But I made the mistake of going round by Kibwezi on the 
Uganda road, instead of following the more direct and con¬ 
venient path used by Swahili traders and Wakamba visiting 
the coast. At the little German mission station of Ikutha, 
where one enters Ukambani, I passed the last outpost of 
civilisation in this direction. I have reason to feel the 
greatest gratitude to its hospitable head (Mr. Sauberlich) for 
many kindnesses and ready assistance in various ways. 
Shortly after leaving there I met Mr. Chanler returning to 
the coast. I had already had the advantage of some talks 
with Lieutenant Von Hohnel (previously Count Teleki’s 
companion) in Mombasa, who had been hurt by a rhinoceros 
while travelling in his company, and from both these gentlemen 
I received much useful information. I had long previously, 
though, heard of Laiju and the Ndorobo country beyond from 
Swahili traders as a good one for elephants, and resolved to 
make that direction my aim, and as much farther as I could 
attain. It had the special attraction for me that the country 
that way was least known, and I was not likely to be hampered 
by rival travellers, official or otherwise, there. Chanler gave 
me a little half-bred terrier, named “ Frolic,” which proved a 
charming little companion, and continued so until her sad 
death on another expedition. 
There is nothing worth recording in the way of sport during 
all this part of the journey. The uninhabited (principally 
desert) country traversed previous to entering Ukambani has 
but little game, though here and there an odd head may be 
picked up,—a Coke’s hartbeeste, impala or zebra,—and a few 
guinea-fowl sometimes help the pot. 
