CHAP. VII 
SECOND EXPEDITION 
39 
certain drawbacks to be put up with on by-paths, such as their 
narrowness and windings, and the overhanging, sometimes 
meeting, branches. The country is similar to that commonly 
known as the Taro desert; an arid, level, scrub-covered tract 
with a barren brick-dust soil and very little water. This part 
of the route is impassable in very dry seasons, owing to the 
little water there ever is drying up. 
It is especially troublesome watering donkeys where water 
has to be dug for and scooped out by cupfuls from a hole into 
which it trickles slowly ; for, before they are accustomed to 
travelling, they are most exasperatingly stupid about drinking, 
even when thirsty. Some will not drink out of a bucket, at 
first; while others, that have lived where water is only in wells, 
cannot be induced to drink except out of a utensil of some 
sort. Indeed, I have found, somewhat to my surprise, that 
the obtuseness proverbially attributed to the humble ass is not 
a libel. 
It is curious to watch the change a good drink makes in 
thirsty donkeys. They come down with hanging ears and 
hollow sides, looking dejected and thin, not a kick or bray in 
the most vicious of them—and what more vicious than a bad- 
tempered donkey stallion ? But as they drink their sides swell 
out visibly, and ribs become less prominent. After about a 
bucketful, up goes the head, the ears are pricked, the tail begins 
to rise, and your lately limp and inoffensive “ punda ” begins 
to look about quite cheekily again, as who should say, “ Now 
come on, you beggars ; if I don’t make it hot for some of you, 
never believe me again.” 
The distances here are very long, between water and water, 
as much as forty miles sometimes, necessitating what is called 
“ telekeza ” (literally “ to make to pour in,” signifying that 
water has to be carried in gourds), which means cooking and 
eating before starting, sleeping anywhere, and reaching the 
next pool — often horribly foul—some time next day. This 
sort of travelling in such a country—tramping hour after hour 
