162 
ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
CHAP. 
effects of the “ fly ” we had come through; the numerous streams, 
too, caused much delay and trouble with the pack-animals ; 
but, when once the point of the Jambeni hills is weathered, the 
country becomes more open and the grass less rank, and from 
there onward it is healthy for them. It is also less tiresome 
to travel through, though the marching is rendered very arduous 
by the rough lava rock which strews the ground. It would be 
quite impossible for the porters to carry their heavy loads over 
such ground with bare feet, for even one’s own get sore ; but 
with sandals of game hide, and travelling slowly, they do not 
suffer. In some parts, too, game is plentiful now, and I was 
able to get meat for the caravan. Between the last of the 
streams and the end of the range especially, I saw great 
quantities of game. Here the grass had been burnt in the open 
plains, which was a great comfort for walking, though the air 
was often filled with smuts, making one’s eyes sore. In places 
the young green grass was springing, and this had attracted 
the game. The smaller zebra were in hundreds, and I saw 
a good-sized troop of elands, perhaps thirty—a sight I had 
not seen for years and a pleasant one ; I also saw a little 
lot of giraffe, and counted eight rhino within quite a short 
distance. There were a few Grant’s gazelle, too, one of 
which I shot. As this was a waterless march, though, I did 
not attempt to kill more meat for the men, as it only makes 
them thirsty under such circumstances. It is rather hard 
to say why the rhino should collect in the burnt ground : 
perhaps they find roots or bulbs to eat, or it may be merely 
for the sake of company that they follow the other game. 
Lions were to be heard at night, as a consequence of the 
abundance of zebra. 
I had some anxiety now about my donkeys, fearing lest they 
might all, or nearly all, die, and so upset again my plan for 
visiting Rudolph. But I comforted myself with my favourite 
motto—“ Whatever is, is best,”—feeling that I had done all I 
could, though it was heart-rending to see them dropping off one 
