28o 
ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA 
CHAP. 
ridges (though of no height), coming right down into the water, 
to get over, reminding us of the south end of the lake. This 
kind of margin is much more picturesque than the low swampy 
parts, the Vater being clear and deepening rapidly. Both 
south and north of the lava ridges are sandy flats. We got 
through the difficult ground in one good day’s march. There 
was a fairly distinct path running along the sides of these 
rocky hills parallel with the shore ; indeed it is generally the 
case wherever the ground is covered thickly with stones, if 
there is game in the country, that paths are formed by any 
animals passing through, owing to their naturally following the 
line of least resistance, and so a beaten track is made and kept 
open by constant use. Where the ground is unobstructed and 
presents no obstacle to progress in any direction, paths are not 
so likely to be formed. 
We found another dry river-bed with trees to camp in. On 
this day I saw a small school of hippos, the first I had seen 
together on the lake, though I had occasionally seen scattered 
individuals. In the night I heard a leopard grunting, and the 
geese were so noisy as to disturb one’s sleep. From here 
there began to be a good deal more bush, though still scattered, 
mainly “ suaki ” near the lake and farther back low-spreading 
thorn bushes. The “ suaki ” is a bushy, evergreen shrub or 
low tree with small, round, light green leaves. It is the sticks 
of this bush that are used by Swahilis as tooth-brushes. I 
presume the name Suakin (which merely means “ at the suaki ” 
in Swahili) is derived from this tree. 
There was great abundance of game at this part. I had 
not seen it so plentiful for many a long day. There were 
zebra of both kinds, oryx, topi antelope, Grant’s gazelle in 
plenty, and a good many Waller’s gazelle ; I also saw a troop of 
waterbuck—the first I had met with on the lake—but my glasses 
being behind, I could not be sure of what species. There were 
numbers of rose-coloured bee-eaters here, and I saw one large 
green one which seemed unfamiliar to me. It was here too that 
