CHAPTER XVI 
EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 
Easy stages—Astir betimes—A regretful shot—Diversity of zebra—A blessing in 
disguise—A salutary lesson—Implementing a promise—A spider and its prey— 
A gladdening feast—Lacking a handy camera—A curious coincidence—El 
Molo mode of fishing—Stalking zebra—Departure from Lake Rudolph—Mount 
Nyiro—A dispensation of Providence—A scene of carnage—El Bogoi camp— 
Hearty greetings—A test of affection—Disappointed hopes. 
The 29th of April saw us once more fairly on the march 
southward. For the first week or so it was necessary to travel 
by very short stages, till the men should get accustomed to 
their new loads. Tusks are carried on the shoulder, and not 
on the head as other articles are. The latter part can be 
protected by a long cloth, wrapped round and round so as to 
stand up from the top of the head and form a thick pad, 
hollow in the middle, for the load to rest on ; but over the 
shoulders only a loose cloth, like a mantle, is worn as a pro¬ 
tection to the skin. Hence it is only gradually that the 
porters’ shoulders become hardened to bearing such great 
weights ; and in the meantime one must go easy with them. 
When thoroughly accustomed to them, my men would often 
march for four hours on end before ever putting their loads 
down to rest. It is a rather pretty sight to see a string of 
men, each with a big white tusk on his shoulder glistening in 
the early morning sun, marching along in single file, all carrying 
on the same side ; and then, when they want to change over, 
all with one accord—the word having been passed along— 
