IRISH CATTLE. 
89 
horns of those on the mountains; they are 
shorter in the leg, shorter in the body; their 
loins and haunches are heavy and wide; al¬ 
though the hair is thick, the hide mellow, and 
they thrive with rapidity. 
This breed is now not to be met with pure, 
except miaiiu un „„„ _ . , . . 
, . , , -being nearly 
worn out elsewhere by the repeatecr cros»cw 
with the Leicester, Hereford, and Devon; but 
for the dairy, all the farmers still prefer those 
cows with most of the native Irish blood. 
The other breed is of a larger size. It is the 
old or partially-improved Craven or Lancashire 
beast. It is the true longhorn; the horns first 
taking a direction outward, then forming 
curve, and returning towards the face, some¬ 
times threatening to pierce the bones of the 
nose at other times, so to cross before the muz¬ 
zle that the animal is unable to graze. 
very remote period. Many persons have con¬ 
cluded that the English longhorns sprung from 
some of the imported Irish ones. Others, how¬ 
ever, with more reason, finding the middlehorns 
in every mountainous and unfrequented part of 
the country, and the longhorns inhabiting the 
lower and more thickly-inhabited districts, re- 
the. pure native breed, 
and the longhorns to have beenra sirern^ 
and introduced, probably, from Lancashire; 
where a breed of cattle of the same character 
and form is found. 
Irish Longhorned Cattle.—Fig. 15. 
The adjoining cut represents the large vari¬ 
ety of Irish cattle, and is evidently identical 
with the Craven or Lancashire. In Tipperary, 
Limerick, Meath, a great part of Munster, and 
particularly in Roscommon, many of these cat¬ 
tle are found, which are most valuable animals. 
Whence these longhorns originally came, is 
a question. There is no doubt that they very 
much resemble the English longhorns, and have 
been materially improved by them; but wheth¬ 
er Ireland or England was the native country 
of this breed will never be determined. An¬ 
cient records are silent on the subject; and in 
both countries we can trace the longhorns to a 
ORCHARDING. 
Raising Fruit Trees from Cuttings .—Cut a 
a scion of the last year’s growth from the tree 
early in spring, and divide it into lengths of 
three or four inches each; dip the ends in rosin 
or grafting wax; plant the pieces in good 
orchard soil, first putting a little clean sand 
around them, and a shoot 
will start from each bud. 
Select the most thrifty for 
your standard, and lop 
down and cover the others 
with sand and earth to form 
roots. Out-door culture, at 
the south, will produce 
trees is this way, two years 
sooner than from seeds, par¬ 
ticularly from apples, pears? 
and quinces. Roses and 
many other garden shrubs 
are propagated in the same 
way. At the north, artifi¬ 
cial heat and moisture may 
be required. 
Planting a Nursery. —Se¬ 
lect a deep, rich soil and 
manure with decayed wood 
and leaves; plow deep, at 
least fifteen inches, and 
see the ground well drained. Plant the rows north 
and south, six feet apart; cultivate between the 
rows for two or three years, some hoed crops, as 
potatoes, carrots, bush beans, &c., and be sure 
to keep the young trees clear of weeds. Stone 
fruits always grow with more certainty, if 
planted while the seeds are moist, or with the 
meat adhering. 
When the trees are one or two feet high, run 
a sharp chisel under and cut the tap roots; this 
facilitates removal when ready to set in the 
orchard, and enables the operator to do the work 
with less danger of injuring the roots—a very 
important matter, which is too much neglected. 
