3 
1863.] AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
had happened to it. Smaller trees may be read¬ 
ily moved without so much labor. 
Stakes and labels should be prepared in Winter. 
Some recommend to make them more durable by 
soaking them in a solution of 1 lb. of blue vitriol 
iu o gallons of water. Straight grained pine, sawed 
into suitable lengths, and split and whittled smooth, 
are the simplest and most easily made. A notch is 
required on both 6ides of one end, to tie by. A 
little thick white paint, rubbed on with a cloth be¬ 
fore marking, preserves them, makes the letters 
more visible, and the paint fastens the pencil marks. 
Those intending-to plant trees next Spring, are 
recommended to excavate large holes now (if not 
already done) where trees are to be set. The frost 
and snow greatly ameliorate the subsoil. Besides 
this benefit, important time in the busy season is 
gained. It pays well, at least on heavy soils, to 
expose the subsoil of the whole area of the new 
orchard, in Winter, to the action of snow and frosts. 
Kitchen and Fruit Garden. 
In northern localities the ground is either frozen 
or covered with snow so that but little can be done 
during; the present month. Still, the garden should 
occasionally be visited to see that all is going on 
well. If water stands ou any places occupied by 
crops it should be removed by surface drains, if uu- 
derdrains be not practicable at once. See that fences 
are tight and gates properly fastened, to all enclo¬ 
sures containing fruit trees and shrubs. A hungry 
stray animal will do irreparable injury in a few 
hours if allowed to enter the garden. Much can be 
done in planning to facilitate Spring work. Every 
garden of moderate dimensions should be mapped 
at leisure:, and all projected alterations or im¬ 
provements indicated. The place for all the main 
crops should be marked upon the map. It is quite 
important to have a regular rotation of crops, there 
iring scarcely any vegetable, save onions, that suc¬ 
ceeds well on the same ground year after year. In 
arranging the planting map, those plants liable to 
mix should be put as tar apart as possible ; this is 
especially important for squashes and melons and 
the different varieties of sweet corn. In open weath¬ 
er the grouud may still be plowed if not too wet. 
Beanpoles , Stakes of all kinds, Pea Brush, ete. 
Now is the best time to get a good supply. If left 
until Spring work begins, it is very apt to be hur¬ 
riedly done or neglected. If the lower ends of the 
poles be soaked in a solution of 1 lb. of blue vitriol in 
12 quarts of water they will be more durable. White 
birch, where obtainable makes good pea brush. 
Cold Frames. —Protect in severe weather by straw 
mats covered by boards orshutters. A covering of 
snow helps protect the plants. In mild weather 
ventilate and let the plants have light. 
Cuttings of Currants, Gooseberries, etc. If these 
were not made in Autumn, secure a supply now, at 
times when they are not frozen. Bury them iu 
moist but not wet sand or soil, in boxes in the cel¬ 
lar. They may be buried in the cellar bottom, if 
moderately dry ground. 
Sot-Bed Frames and Sashes.—Old ones should be 
put in order and new ones made or purchased. 
Every garden should have a hot-bed; they are cheap¬ 
ly constructed and easily managed by any one of 
ordinary intelligence. Almost all kinds of vegetables 
are easily obtained some weeks earlier. The sash 
should be six feet long, and wide enough to con¬ 
tain 4 rows of 7x9 glass. The sides of the sash 
should be heavy enough to prevent springing; this 
may be obviated by an iron rod secured midway 
across the sash. Unless one is a very clever work¬ 
man, it will be found cheapest to purchase the sash 
ready glazed. The glass should lap about % of an 
inch and be well secured by points and putty at the 
sides. No putty is required where the panes over¬ 
lap. The frames should be made of plauk, firmly 
nailed together. They may be one foot high in 
front and two feet high at the rear, and of a length 
suitable for two or three sashes if so many are used. 
Seeds .—Examine the supplies on hand, and see 
that they are safefrom mice. Note the kinds which 
it will be necessary to purchase and examine seeds¬ 
men’s catalogues. Experienced persons can judge 
of the quality of seeds by inspection; where there 
is any doubt, it is safer to test them before purchas¬ 
ing a supply. Placed in earth or sand, not too wet, 
in a warm room, they w.ill soon germinate if good. 
Tools. —See that all are in good repair and care¬ 
fully housed. One man with good tools will do as 
much work as two men with poor tools, yet the 
difference in the cost may be less than the expense 
of a very few days’ work. 
Flower Garden ai»<l Fawn. 
If any improvements are to be made here, let the 
plan be well considered and placed upon paper so 
as to be worked from... .When snow accumulates 
on evergreens, a slight jarring will throw it off and 
prevent their being broken down... .Walks and 
carriage drives may be made during mild weather. 
Dry walks should be secured by placing a drainage 
of coarse stones below the gravel_Prepare an 
abundance of neat labels and stakes, in anticipfu- 
tion of the busy season... .Elower pits should be 
allowed air freely when the temperature is not too 
low. Give water sparingly if the soil is very dry; 
keep them carefully closed and covered during very 
cold weather. Look out formice_If trees are to 
be planted in the Spring, holes may be made now 
whenever the ground is open. The frost will great¬ 
ly ameliorate the soil and fit it for the reception of 
roots. Large trees may be moved with a ball of 
frozen earth, as suggested under Orchard above. 
Green anti Hot-Moiises. 
Care and judgment will be required to maintain 
a proper temperature. Listing the cracks and put¬ 
ting on shutters in very cold weather, will save a 
large amount of wood or coal—the latter an import¬ 
ant matter at its present price. Iu the Green-House, 
where but little or no growth is desired, the tem¬ 
perature should be kept between 40° and 50°. In 
the Hot-House the range should be from 65° to 70°, 
and moisture of atmosphere and other conditions of 
rapid growth maintained. Look after ample ven¬ 
tilation when the out-door temperature is not low, 
and arrange for plenty of light. The importance 
of light is not always apparent to novitiates. 
Azaleas require water as they increase in growth. 
Bulbs. —Those desired to bloom soon are to be 
transferred from the Green-House to the Hot-House, 
where the higher temperature will favor their rapid 
growth. Change water in glasses every two weeks. 
Calceolarias. —Ke-pot those needing it. Turn fre¬ 
quently, presenting all sides equally to the light to 
induce upright growth. 
Camellias should now delight the lovers of the 
beautiful, with a fine bloom. Water and syringe 
foliage every three or four days, but avoid wetting 
the flowers, as this will hasten their decay. 
Carnations , etc. —Set cuttings to provide plants 
for early Summer bloom in the open air. Stake 
those in bloom, and water frequently. Those be¬ 
coming pot-bound need shifting to larger pots. 
Cuttings also of petunias, verbenas, pelargoniums, 
etc., for bedding out in Spring, may now be made. 
Those planted last month are ready to pot off. 
Fuchsias. —B,e-pot growing plants. The imperfect 
ones will answer well for cuttings. 
Crapes. —Those well advanced require plenty of 
air and but little water at the roots. If mildew ap¬ 
pear, syringe with water in which a little sulphur is 
sprinkled. Thin out, and prune if needed. 
Insects. —Guard against them as much as possible, 
by cleanliness, washing or syringing foliage, hand 
picking, etc. If they appear, use tobacco fumes 
for tlirips or green fly, soap and water for scale, and 
clear water with sponge or syringe, for red spider. 
Manure. —Stimulate growing plants every two 
weeks or so with dilute liquid manure, until plants 
are about to bloom, then discontinue. 
Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, and Myrtles should 
now be put in a situation to favor a moderate growth. 
Clean their trunks and branches from insects. 
Peach, Nectarines, Figs', and other fruit trees in 
pots, should now have a warm growing position, 
and re-potting if needed. Give liquid manure occa¬ 
sionally, and look for fruit the latter part of June. 
Soil. —Have a supply ready for use where it will 
not freeze. Directions for its preparation have 
been frequently given in previous numbers. 
Seeds of many hardy annuals may now be sown 
for transplanting early to open air borders. 
Water will be needed frequently this month, es¬ 
pecially in those houses requiring considerable 
heat. A mere sprinkling of the surface is not suf¬ 
ficient. It is well to piunge the whole pot into the 
water tank if the foliage begins to wilt. Fire heat 
often dries the earth in the bottom of the pot when 
the surface is moist. Keep a tank, cistern, or bar¬ 
rel, always full of water in the house itself, that it 
may be of the same temperature. 
A pin ry in January. 
This is a period of inactivity in the hives. For 
those out of doors little can be done except to se¬ 
cure proper ventilation, which is quite as neces¬ 
sary now as at other seasons, and to guard against 
the depredations of mice. Ice may chance to close 
every aperture and the bees be smothered. If mild 
weather occurs, and the frost leaves the hives, they 
may be lifted to allow the removal of dead bees 
and accumulated filth. Mice and other vermin may 
be kept out by closing the openings with wire 
cloth, leaving a hole large enough for the passage 
of a single bee. When snow covers the hives let it 
remain, if proper care has been taken to keep out 
the mice. While the sun should be allowed to fall 
upon the hives in very cold weather, they should 
be shaded during the warm spells. The bees may 
be tempted to fly during mild days, and may be al¬ 
lowed to do so unless the ground is covered with 
recently fallen snow. Bees that are housed require 
but little attention, and should not be disturbed 
any more than is necessary to make sure that they 
are secure from the attacks of vermin. 
Seasonable Directions for Mess Pork. 
The following standard rules, known as ll 6elty's 
Directions ,” are those given for putting up Prime 
Mess Pork, to meet the requirements of the English 
market. They are also adopted and made impera¬ 
tive, in the contracts given out for Army Sup¬ 
plies by the United States Government. 
Quality and AVeight of Pigs. —The Pigs to weigh 
from one hundred to one hundred and sixty pounds each, 
and to be in good condition, strictly corn-fed or hard Pork. 
For the United States army the weight may be extended 
to one hundred and seventy pounds. 
Parts excluded. - The head Is to be excluded, also 
the fore leg up to the breast or brisket, the hind leg in¬ 
cluding the hock or gambrel joint, and the rump, if the 
hams are not cut up with the sides. 
What constitutes a Barrel of Prime Mess. —A bar¬ 
rel of Prime Mess Pork consists of fifty pieces of four 
pounds each. If the hams are cut up and put in, there 
shall not be less than twenty-three side-pieces; if with¬ 
out. hams, not less than thirty side-pieces. 
How to Cut and Cure.—A fter the Pig has been split 
through the back, cut each side longitudially into two 
strips; pack the strips into large casks or vats, and fill up 
with brine, having saltpeter added at the rate of one ounce 
to three gallons of brine; leave the strips in the brine 
for eight or ten days to extract the blood, and for the lean 
meat to take a pink color. 
AViien ready to be packed into barrels, have each strip 
carefully cleaned, using a knife and brush if necessary ; 
cut them into four-pound pieces as nearly as may be: 
Mess (select the pieces) as indicated, and pack neatly and 
compactly in layers, with sufficient salt to preserve it. 
Barrels. —The barrel should be twenty-eight inches 
long, and seventeen and a half inches over the end (when 
finished,) made of seasoned white oak free from sap. full 
bound with hickory or white oak hoops, and one iron 
hoop (one inch wide) on each end next below the chine 
hoop. 
Theory of Messing. —Pigs averaging say one hundred 
and forty-five pounds, will work up in messing about as 
follows: When the side, including the ham, is cutup 
there will be twenty-three or twentv-four pieces of side 
meal, eight pieces of ham and saddle, and eighteen or 
nineteen of shoulder and neck to the barrel ; excluding 
the hams, the number of side-pieces will be increased to 
thirty-one or thirty-two. In no case should there be 
more than six pieces of the leg part of the shoulder put 
into a barrel. 
