1863.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
195 
Manure .—Now is the time to push plants. Just 
before a shower and during “ good growing weath¬ 
er,” give manure in a liquid form. The home¬ 
made guano which has been saved from the poultry 
house will come in play now. A half bushel of 
this in a barrel of water, or a liquid made with cow 
manure, of the color of tea will do wonders in the 
garden. Use sink slops if you have nothing bet¬ 
ter. Apply to the roots only. 
Melons .—Continue to hoe. Pinch back the vig¬ 
orous growers, and if yon wish choice fruit, let no 
more remain on the vine than can be ripened. A 
good part of the fruit is usually cut off by frost. 
Onions .—Keep clear of weeds, and thin if the 
plants are crowded. See note on the maggot in last 
month’s Calendar. Seed may be sown for small 
bulbs for next Spring’s planting and for pickles. 
Peas .—Preserve the best for seed, and pick as soon 
as the pods become dry. Seed may be sown for 
late crops, but they generally mildew. Deep plant¬ 
ing is said to prevent this in a measure, and we 
have seen it stated that they will not mildew if 
planted at the bottom of a trench, but we have had 
no experience in this method of growing them. 
When other vegetables are abundant, late peas, 
though good, arc not much missed late in the season. 
Potatoes .—The early sorts, and none other should 
be grown in the garden, will be out of the way by 
the end of tjiis month, and the ground may be giv- 
on up to cabbages which have been planted be¬ 
tween the rows, or cleaned off altogether to make 
room for turnips, Fall spinach, etc. 
Rhubarb .—The flower stalks should be cut off un¬ 
less it is desirable to save seed. Tender stalks 
may still be pulled from near the center of the 
plant, but it is better to let the root recover its 
strength if it has been severely plucked. The stalks 
may be dried in the manner of apples or, What is 
better, may be preserved in bottles like fruit. A 
drink called “ Rhubarb Wine ” may be made from 
the juice according to a recipe given on page 215. 
Seeds .—Early maturing, seeds, such as those of 
cabbage and turnips, should be gathered as soon 
as the pods begin to turn. The stalks should be 
cut and the seed allowed to mature in the shade. 
Squashes .—Hoe until there is danger of injuring 
the vines. Keep a sharp look out for insects. 
Hand-picking early in the morning is a sure reme¬ 
dy. Search for the borer described last mouth (on 
page 173). In localities where the season is short, 
allow each vine to bear but two or three squashes. 
Tomatoes .—Pinch off the ends of the rampant 
branches, and remove all fruit showing signs of 
decay. Lay brush on the bed for the vines to trail 
over, or mulch with straw and let them fall down. 
The potato or tobacco worm, figured and described 
on page 108, May Agriculturist , often makes great 
havoc with the tomatoes. Search for and crush him. 
Transplanting .—Vacancies in most crops can be 
filled by careful transplanting. Many plants are 
decidedly benefited by it, and few are injured if the 
work is carefully done. Missing hills of corn can 
be tilled out from those containing too many plants, 
and other things not usually transplanted can gen¬ 
erally be successfully moved to fill up deficiencies. 
Weeds .—If there are any weeds in the garden, it is 
either too large, or it is neglected. You can raise 
weeds if you choose, but it will not be because the 
teachings of the Agriculturist have been followed. 
Flower Ganleii and Fawn. 
The backwardness of the Spring, and the dryness 
of the early part of June, have probably retarded 
many of the flowering plants, so that the present 
month will present a much greater variety of flow¬ 
ers than usual. Bedding plants may still be put 
out to fill the places occupied by early flowering 
bulbs. With skillful management, there need be 
no lack of attractiveness in the garden from the 
time frost disappears until it returns in Autumn. 
Annuals .—If any of these have failed, lose no 
time in resowing. Though they may not mature 
seeds, most of them will yield a late bloom. 
Bulbs .—Take up and dry as directed last month. 
Carnations should now be in fine bloom. Keep 
the stalks tied up to stakes, and if the flower bursts 
irregularly, slit the calyx. Malta layers and cuttings. 
Climbers .—The herbaceous climbers like Ipomseas, 
Maurandias, Cobtea, etc., should be provided with 
strings or wires. Those woody ones which require 
to be laid down in winter, should not be allowed to 
interweave themselves into the lattice or trellis in 
a manner that will render them difficult to remove. 
Dahlias. —^Stakes, strings, mulch and liquid ma¬ 
nure are the elements of success in the culture of 
these. Read article on training, on page 211. They 
may still be set with a prospect of late flowers. 
Evergreens whether singly or in hedges should be 
pruned this month. Do not trim up the lower 
branches unless they are diseased. The great beauty 
of an evergreen consists in its broad spreading base. 
Brass .—The lawn should be mowed as often as 
there is anything for the scythe or mowing machine 
to cut. If the grass is cut when very short it may 
be left to fertilize the lawn. Keep all edgings and 
the borders of lawns evenly cut. Do not allow 
any runners from the grass edgings to obtrude up¬ 
on the borders or walks, or they will make trouble. 
Keeping .—Neatness and care should characterize 
every department. Keep all plants which are in 
danger of being prostrated by winds, neatly tied to 
stakes, peg down bedding plants, cut away the dry 
flower stalks and clusters after the bloom is over, 
and make frequent use of the rake, to clean up. 
Potted Plants that are placed about the grounds, 
dry out very soon and need frequent watering. 
They should be turned or moved occasionally to 
prevent the roots, which grow out through the hole 
in the bottom, from fastening the pot to the soil. 
Rhododendrons .—These are very apt to suffer dur¬ 
ing the intense heat. Mulch their roots carefully. 
Roses .—Keep pillar sorts and climbers well se¬ 
cured. Cut off the flower stems as soon as the 
bloom is past its prime. Nothing looks more slov¬ 
enly than to see the ground littered with fallen rose 
leaves. Cut back the remontants to secure a late 
bloom. Treat the rose slug to a solution of 1 lb. 
whale oil soap in 6 gallons of water. The Aquarius 
will be found a convenient apparatus with which 
to apply it, but a common tin syringe will answer. 
Apply to both the under and upper side of the leaves. 
Seeds .—Save the seeds of the biennials and peren¬ 
nials now ripening. If not needed in your own 
grounds they will be acceptable to friends. Label 
with the greatest care, and keep dry, but not hot. 
Verbenas .—Keep them well pegged down. Suit¬ 
able hooks for the purpose can be cut from shrubs 
or asparagus shoots, hair pins are sometimes used. 
Water newly planted shrubs and trees if they ap¬ 
pear to languish. Remove the surface earth, give 
a copious watering, and then replace the earth. 
Weeds .—Use the hoe and rake frequently, and 
hand-weed near the plants. Begin early ; the pul¬ 
ling of large weeds disturbs the roots of plants. 
’Friaat Cisii’deas. 
The harvest has already begun here. A crop of 
nice strawberries has opened the season of fruits. 
Blackberries .—Keep the canes well tied up. Where 
the crop of fruit is heavy the bearing branches will 
need support. Hoe frequently or keep well mulched. 
Currants .—These often bear so heavily as to 
break down the branches, tie up or stake where this 
is the case. Gather when first ripened, for jelly. 
Leave those intended for bottling until fully ripe. 
Dwarf Emits .—Keep the trees planted this 
Spring well mulched. Summer pinching should be 
done. See article on page 210. Thin out the fruit 
from over-loaded trees. Give slugs a dusting of 
lime or ashes as directed above for the orchard. 
Crapes .—Pinch off the bearing shoots leaving at 
least three or four leaves beyond the bunches. Rub 
off all superfluous shoots, and thus save fall pruning. 
Raspberries . — These will now need daily picking. 
As soon as the fruiting season is over, cut down the 
old canes and train up the new growth ; remove all 
superfluous shoots, leaving but two or three of the 
strongest to each plant. If it is desired to multi¬ 
ply the variety, the superfluous cancs may be left 
to grow to be removed for transplanting in the Fall. 
Strawberries .—Where the plants are cultivated in 
hills, keep the runners closely pinched off. If new 
plants are wanted, spade manure in between the 
rows and let the runners grow. They will soon 
take root and multiply with very great rapidity. 
<Rree«i ansi llot-SIonses. 
The houses are emptied of all but the tender trop¬ 
ical plants ; those which remain need free circula¬ 
tion of air and frequent waterings. Where the sun 
is too powerful, its force should be broken by coat¬ 
ing the glass with whiting or by a muslin screen. 
Budding may now be done upon the woody 
plants whenever the stock is in working condition. 
Callas .—Repot them now, and water less freely. 
Cuttings .—A 6toek may be put in for plants of 
such varieties as are desired for winter blooming. 
Earth for Potting .—Prepare a good supply and 
have it well mixed. The 60 ds from an old pasture 
stacked up and allowed to decay, make a most ex¬ 
cellent material; also black earth from the woods. 
Qrapes .—'Those vines from which fruit has been 
gathered, should have less water and plenty of air 
in order that the wood may ripen. Later vines still 
need to be pinched in and to have the clusters thin¬ 
ned. Water and syringe frequently, and use sul¬ 
phur if mildew appears. 
Insects .—These still continue to increase and the 
houses will need watching. Whale oil soap and 
fumigation must be used from time to time. 
Potting .—Seedlings should not become too much 
crowded. Pot before they get weak and drawn up. 
Water .—Give freely and use the syringe. In very 
dry weather, water will be needed both morning and 
evening. The “ aquarius ” is convenient for this. 
Ajsiary iei Jsily. 
Prepared by M. Quinby—by request. 
The surplus honey must be looked after this 
month. Do not let any of the bees lose time for 
want of boxes now. A good yield may be lost 
by putting off supplying extra boxes, for only a 
short time. The greatest yield of white clover is 
in the early part of the month, it fails somewhat 
toward the last, and continues a moderate show of 
flowers until the end of the season. The eutire 
yield from basswood will be given in about two 
weeks ; sometimes commencing as early as the 
4th, at others as late as the 18th. Where this tim¬ 
ber is abundant, the collections are sometimes 
wonderful. The flowers are pendant, and wet 
weather makes less difference with the honey se¬ 
creted, than with clover. The honey in appear¬ 
ance is equal, if not superior to any other. The 
flavor is particularly palatable to many, on account 
of its peculiar aroma... .Keep a supply of boxes on 
hand to replace the full ones as fast as filled. One 
full box is preferable to two or three half filled. A 
little management will secure an addition to the 
number of full ones. A stock will often swarm too 
much when the boxes are only half filled, and leave 
too few bees to add any more. When there is no 
prospect of more being done, take the boxes away 
and give to some strong colony to finish. A box 
may be changed half a dozen times on 6ome occa¬ 
sions, if necessary. To get rid of the bees taken 
off with the boxes, take an empty box, bee tight, 
put in the boxes on their sides, combs vertical, in 
such a way that the bees may creep out of all. 
Throw over them a sheet, that no bees may get in 
or out. After standing a little time, the bees, in 
their endeavor to escape, will get on the under 
side of the sheet, when it may be turned over; by 
repeating this a few times all may be disposed of 
