1863.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
201 
Lettuce .—Transplant to cold frames. Seed may 
be sown in frames. 
Onions .—Those sown late, for wintering over, 
need a good covering of litter to protect them. 
Parsnips .—The main crop is to be left in the 
ground. A supply for use while the earth is frozen, 
may be taken up and buried in sand in the cellar. 
Pickles .—Continue to salt cucumbers, unripe to¬ 
matoes, green peppers, melons, etc., for pickles. 
Rhubarb.— Ne|r beds may be made at any time 
before the ground is frozen. Give plenty of ma¬ 
nure and set the plants 3 or 4 feet each way. See 
directions in April Calendar. 
Salsify requires the same treatment as parsnips. 
Spinach .—Thin out if needed, and give a light 
covering of litter to protect it during the Winter. 
Squashes.—A very moderate frost injures them; 
house in good season, and be careful not to bruise 
them. Any unripe Hubbards may be used at once 
as they are better when green than most other 
squashes are when ripe. 
Sweet Potatoes .—Dig as soon as the tops are killed. 
Handle carefully ; pack in very dry sand, or in cut 
straw; keep in a warm place. See April Ayr. 
Tomatoes .—Bottle or can a good supply. The frost 
can be kept from the vines by a light awning of 
cloth and the period of fruiting be thus extended. 
Trenching may be done this month, and the 
ground thus be made partially ready for Spring. 
Turnips .—The early varieties may be stored or 
marketed. Rutabagas and other late sorts will 
continue to grow for some time yet. 
Winter Cherries .—Collect as they ripen and make 
into preserves, or keep them with the husks on to 
be used as needed. 
Frail Garden. 
Much can be done in preparing land and in set¬ 
ting out hardy trees and shnibs. 
Blackberries .—These can be successfully planted 
in the Fall. The ground needs to be enriched with 
vegetable matter, such as muck or leaf compost and 
well rotted manure. The New Rochelle and Dor¬ 
chester are the best accessible kinds. We have 
known the finer varieties of the wild bushes to be 
cultivated with good results. The tall kinds should 
tee set in rows 8 feet apart and 4 feet in the row. 
Currant s and Gooseberries .—Set out established 
plants the last of the month, and make cuttings for 
both as directed in the article on currants, page 306. 
Grapes .—These should all be picked before hard 
frost. Grapes have been kept well until Spring by 
packing in boxes a foot square and 6 inches deep, 
with paper between each layer. The boxes should 
be kept in a cool cellar. Transplanting may be 
done this month. In the far northern localities the 
vines may be pruned and laid down this month. 
Strawbemes. —Beds, may still be made, though it 
should have preferably been done last month. 
Cover both new and old beds before hard freezing. 
Forest leaves makes an excellent covering, but 
straw is generally used, because more available. 
Flower Garden aixl Lawn. 
Tender plants which yet remain out should be 
removed to winter quarters. The borders should 
still be attractive with late-blooming plants, and 
they ought to be subject to the same care in keep¬ 
ing as at any other season. 
Bedding Plants. —Petunias, lantanas, geraniums, 
etc., usually get so overgrown and misshapen dur¬ 
ing the Summer that they are seldom worth taking 
up in the Fall. It is much more satisfactory to 
start new plants. If this has not already been 
done, cuttings should be made at once. 
Bulbs .—Plant for Spring as directed last month. 
Chrysanthemums .—There should be a fine stock 
of these, as they add much to the fall decoration 
of the garden. They bloom even after hard frosts. 
Keep them neatly tied up. 
Dahlias .—All should be properly labelled while 
the flowers are perfect and you are able to identify 
them. Do not be in a hurry to take up the roots 
as soon as the tops are killed ': they keep better if 
allowed to ripeu a week or two in the ground. Lift 
the roots on a dry day : let them dry awhile in the 
sun, and then pack away in a dry, cool cellar. 
Frames and Pits should be ready to receive the 
plants. Tender roses, verbenas, salvias, geraniums, 
etc., may be wintered in them. Give ventilation 
wdienever there is no danger of frost. 
Gladiolus .—Treat as directed above for dahlias. 
Perennials .—Phloxes and others may be divided 
and reset as soon as vegetation ceases. Sow seeds 
of Hollyhock and Wail-Flower early this month. 
Seeds .—Continue to save from the best flowers 
until the plants are killed. 
Shrubs .—Plant freely of the hardy sorts. These 
mostly do best when planted in the Fall. 
Lawn .—New lawns may be made sowing early 
and rolling well, and again before Winter sets in. 
Green and If ©t-SF©noses. 
The plants should all be in their places this 
month, the pots cleaned from weeds and moss, 
and the plants properly pruned and arranged ac¬ 
cording to their necessities for light and heat. A 
little fire heat will be needed by the tropical kinds. 
Ventilation should be carefully attended to, and 
a proper degree of humidity kept up, by syringing. 
The war upon insects must be commenced as 
soon as the plants are housed: they are much 
easier kejrt in subjection if taken in time. 
If there is room for a few pots of annuals the 
seed may be sown now. They will add much to 
the decoration of the house in Midwinter. 
Apiary in ©etot&er. 
Prepared, by M. Quinby—By Request. 
Consumers of honey look for its plentiful arrival 
in market this month. As they are willing to pay 
well for the good appearance of the article, pains 
should be taken to have it neatly put up, and in 
salable order. With a damp cloth wipe off from 
the boxes any honey that may have leaked out. 
Paste fine clean paper or muslin over the bottoms, 
to exclude insects and dust. Turn the boxes bot¬ 
tom upward to ride to market, as the combs are 
less liable to be broken. Pack the small boxes in 
a larger one that can be easily handled, and secure 
from sliding about and from rough usage, that the 
combs may be kept whole. The cells in the store 
combs of the boxes are usually much longer than 
those for breeding, and at the same time are in¬ 
clined upward, as philosophy would teach us that 
they should be, to keep the honey from running 
out. If boxes with such cells, are turned bottom 
upward, the cells incline downward, and some 
honey must run out of all not sealed, and will flow 
over the caps of those that are covered. If invert¬ 
ed immediately on taking the box from the hive, 
while the honey is warm, it is worse than after get¬ 
ting cold. If the honey does not burst off caps, 
it will press fine particles through the pores, 
presenting a wet, or greasy appearance. When the 
honey does not come through, simply pressing 
against the sealing gives it a different appearance 
from the dear white of the best honey, when first 
taken from the hive, for except in large cells, bees 
seal these cells, without the covering touching the 
honey. If we care for the appearance of the honey, 
the boxes should not be inverted at any time, (ex¬ 
cept to prevent breaking combs when on the road.) 
In taking the box from the hive, it should not be 
wrenched off by taking hold of the top, but care¬ 
fully lifted by a strong knife slipped under the bot¬ 
tom. It should then be set on its side or end, 
keeping the combs vertical until the bees arc out; 
when put away it should stand in the same position 
as on the hive. The half cells next the glass, when 
filled with honey—and in good seasons they will be 
so—if the box is removed by wrenching, will be 
quite apt to leak. Although we can with care 
usually prevent leaking, it will inevitably occur 
sometimes. The tine appearance of the combs may 
be restored with proper care. Set the box on 
the hive, and allow a few bees to enter, they imme¬ 
diately lick up all honey that is running, and that 
which is in unsealed cells. The danger is, in letting 
in too many bees, if they do not find honey running 
sufficient to satisfy them, they do not hesitate to 
bite away the caps of that sealed. As soon as the 
bees have cleaned all the combs, the box is to be put 
where the bees will leave it, as at first. .Now is the 
time to select stocks for wintering. Those who 
keep none but the best, will have what is called 
“ good luck.” Too much honey in a hive is as ob¬ 
jectionable as too little. Too many bees are not 
wanted. From 25 to 40 pounds of bees and honey 
is an abundance. A cluster of bees that extends 
through seven or eight combs, on a cool morning, 
the latter part of this month, may be considered a 
reliable one, unless diseased brood, or excess of 
honey causes them to spread out more than usual. 
.. -.Any stocks containing foul brood should be 
broken up at once. If the brood be not all hatched 
by the middle or last of October, something unfa¬ 
vorable may be suspected....Some failures must 
be looked for in attempting to winter hives not 
possessing all the requisites above named. Those 
having sufficient bees and comb, may be fed up to 
the proper weight. The feed should be given to 
them as first as the bees can take care of it. It is 
not safe to depend on the weight of the supplies 
given to the bees ; ascertain the real condition by 
weighing the hives after feeding what is deemed a 
proper amount. If combs are deficient, bees and 
honey will be also. In such cases it is best to 
take out the bees and set the hives away in some 
cold room where they will be thoroughly frozen, 
and keep them for use another year. They should 
be placed right side up, and have every crevice 
stopped to keep out all intruders....Condemned 
colonies should be driven out before killing the 
bees ; it is less trouble than removing them from 
the combs when taking the honey from the hive. 
Strain the honey from combs unsuitable for the 
table; it drains out more easily if the combs be 
crushed before they are cold. 
--«> ---a » ---- 
IT. Y. Fruit Grower’s Meetings. 
During the 'hot weather, these gatherings were par¬ 
tially suspended, but r.ow that the season of fruits has 
come, the growers seem to have renewed their interest 
in the meetings, and on Thursday, Sept. 10th, a large num¬ 
ber of them assembled and had an interesting talk, a 
few points of which we give below. There was a tine 
show of fruits, better than can be seen at some State 
Fairs, and more instructive too, for the fruit was tested 
as well as seen: 
Mr. E. E. Clark, of New-Haven, called to the chair. 
C. W. Idell, of West Washington Market, presented a 
basket of fine Crawford peaches for distribution to the 
members ; some seedling peaches of promise were shown, 
one of which, the “ Creole” was remarkable for its thin 
skin and delicious flavor. 
Mr. Cole, of Conn., showed some plums, seedlings of 
wild Iowa plums, which, though possessing a tough skin, 
with rather coarse flesh, were considered worthy of atten¬ 
tion on account of their freedom from the knot, and from 
the ravages of the curculio. 
Dr. Ward, of Newark, N. J., stated that he went large¬ 
ly into the plum culture 15 years ago, planting hundreds 
of trees, but so completely were the crops destroyed by 
the curculio. that he rooted out all his trees. He thinks 
that by starting again with this wild plum, the skin of 
which is too thick for the curculio, we may improve upon 
it and yet raise passable plums. 
Dr. Trimble said it was cowardly and disgracefui to 
submit to an insect enemy so easily conquered. He had 
seen a good collection of plums from Ellwanger & Barry, 
who jar the trees and thus raise a fair crop. 
Dr. Newberry made a chicken yard of his plum orchard 
and now has fruit where it was formerly destroyed. 
The plan should be pursued by neighborhoods, or the 
insects from neglected orchards will sting others’ fruit. 
Dr. Trimble has heerd much about the instinct of the 
curculio, that the female will not deposit her eggs over 
water, but a visit to Dr. Underhill’s place where the plum 
