1863.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
333 
Nursery Rows. —Plow between them and turn the 
furrows toward the trees. 
Seedlings of nursery stocks, intended for root¬ 
grafting, should be taken up this month and stored 
in the cellar to be worked during the Winter. 
Seeds of apples, pears, etc., and stones of peaches, 
etc., may be planted as directed last month. 
Seed Reds. —Seedlings, especially those of ever¬ 
greens, need some protection the first year. Sift 
some dry sandy earth over them, and cover them 
with leaves or cedar boughs. 
Kitchen Garden. 
There will be plenty of work in a well managed 
garden until freezing weather stops all operations. 
The crops still remaining out are to be harvested, 
and the ground everywhere to be cleaned up, so 
that every available portion of refuse shall go either 
directly to the compost heap, or to the pig stye, or 
cattle yard. All work of preparation done now, 
will greatly facilitate labor next Spring. In stiff 
soil it will pay to throw the ground up in ridges 
with plow or spade, and leave it thus to the mellow¬ 
ing influences of the frost. The details of oper¬ 
ations are the same as those given last month. 
Asparagus. —Cover with coarse manure. Make 
new beds, according to directions given last month. 
The ground can hardly be made too rich. Ma¬ 
nure is the secret of the “Giant Asparagus.” 
Beets. —The harvesting and storing should be 
completed before hard frost comes. 
Cabbages. —These should be covered for Winter as 
advised in last month’s calender. Finish putting 
young plants into cold frames. 
Carrots. —Dig and store the remaining crops 
early in the month. 
Celery. —Continue to earth up in dry weather. 
Harvest before severe weather. Stand it upright 
on level ground and cover with boards and bank up 
with earth. Allow no earth to fall between the stalks. 
Latterly, we have practised putting enough for ear¬ 
ly winter use into the cellar, covering with earth, 
and leaving the rest where it grows, well banked 
over with earth when first struck by killing frost. 
Cold Frames. —Prepare for use, and set in them, 
the cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce plants, etc., re¬ 
quiring winter protection. Cover with glass or 
shutters during cold nights, but keep open by day 
as long as the weather will admit. When Winter 
sets in, cover securely, banking up about the sides, 
and put straw, leaves, etc., over them to exclude 
frost. Every mild day, open for a short time. 
Brain every wet and heavy spot. The whole 
garden will be all the better for draining; it can be 
worked enough earlier in the Spring to make it pay. 
Mice. —Let no rubbish be left to harbor them. 
Guard against their intrusion into the cold frames. 
Dishes of meal, poisoned with arsenic, will soon 
dispose of them. 
Onions. —Cover with litter to protect those sown 
late to be left in the ground during the Winter. 
Parsnips and Salsify are improved by leaving in 
the ground until Spring. Dig enough for use 
during Winter, and cover with earth in the cellar. 
Poles, stakes, frames, etc., should all be carefully 
gathered, and housed for future use. 
Rhubarb.— Set roots with crowns, any time be¬ 
fore the ground closes. Cover with coarse stable 
manure, to protect the roots and enrich the soil. 
Spinach. —Hoe and thin the plants, and cover 
with straw or other litter. 
Turnips. —Gather before injured by frost, and 
store for household use, and for feeding to stock. 
Fruit Garden. 
H the weather continues mild, hardy plants may 
be put out with advantage. We some time ago 
gave our reason for preferring to have a separate 
garden for small fruits, rather than mix up fruit 
and vegetables in the same ground. Whenever 
sufficient land is at command, it is altogether bet¬ 
ter for both, to have them separate. Now is a 
good season to lay out such a garden, drain and 
prepare the soil, making all ready for Spring. 
Blackberries may be set as directed last month. 
Cu-irants and Coosebm'ies. —Be sure to provide for 
a good stock of these. Currants particularly, sel¬ 
dom fail. Set out rooted plants, or start cuttings. 
Ample directions are given in the last and present 
numbers. Manure old beds. 
Dwarf Trees. —Apples and Pears may be set out 
this Fall. In selecting varieties it is well to heed 
the advice given by ‘ Connecticut ’ on another page. 
Buy only of parties of known reliability, and be 
willing to pay a little more for a thrifty well grown 
tree, rather than take an inferior one because cheap. 
O-rape Vines. —If you have not already a vine, 
plant one—or rather several. We have now so 
many good sorts, that every one can find a grape 
that will suit even the most unfavorable climate. 
Planting may be done now. Set out one or two 
year old well rooted plants in soil deeply spaded 
and well enriched, and in a locality where water 
does not stand. Prune this month and lay down 
the vines. Read article on page 340. Yearling 
vines, cut back at this season may be protected by 
having a mound of earth drawn up around them. 
Raspberries. —Bend down the canes and cover 
slightly with earth. New roots may still be set out. 
Strawberries.—Give their winter protection to 
both old and new beds. Straw, spent tan bark, or 
forest leaves may be used. 
Flower Garden and Fawn. 
The Chrysanthemums have the garden all to 
themselves at this time, save here and there a 
straggling flower that has escaped the first frost; 
glorious flowers they are to help us prolong the 
season of bloom into Winter. We look upon the 
desolation which frost has made in our borders, 
and sigh for the favorites of Summer, as we re¬ 
member the tender care with which we cherished 
them. The memory of the pleasure their beauty 
gave us should incite ns to prepare for their return. 
We do not wish the readers of the Agriculturist to 
be of that class who have a fever for gardening 
every Spring, but which subsides, as soon as the 
novelty and excitement are over. We would 
have them look upon gardening as a pleasure 
which is best enjoyed when its labors are distributed 
throughout the year. To work and plan for future 
results, is a moral lesson, which can be learned 
even in the smallest flower garden. During this 
month, much can be done in preparing for next 
season’s enjoyment. Care for the things we already 
have, acquiring additions to our stock, and laying 
out new grounds, or changing old ones, to better 
suit our improved taste, will give abundant work 
for November. 
Bulbs. —Some are to come out of the ground and 
others are to go into it. Gladioluses, Tigridias, 
Amaryllis, Hab ran thus, etc., should be lifted be¬ 
fore the ground freezes. Let them dry off in the 
sun, and store them away in a cool place, secure 
from frost and mice. The Dutch Bulbs, such as 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Croeusses, etc., should have 
been planted last month, but better now than not 
at all. These flowers are great ornaments to the 
garden in Spring, and produce the best effects in 
masses. The soil should be light and rich, and if 
disposed to be wet, drainage is to be secured by 
removing the soil to the depth of 15 inches and 
putting in a layer of 2 inches of small stones, brick 
rubbish or the like; put a layer of good soil over 
this, working in a plenty of old manure. The bed 
should be 3 or 4 inches above the general level, 
to allow for settling. In putting out the bulbs, 
Hyacinths should be set about 9 inches apart, Cro¬ 
eusses 3 inches, and Tulips 6 inches. Hyacinths 
produce a fine effect when planted in a circular or 
oval bed, in rows of distinct colors, one within 
another. The tops of the large bulbs ought to be 
3 inches below the surface. After planting, cover 
with a good coating of coarse litter manure. The 
bulbs are to be had at moderate prices at the city 
seed and florist’s stores. 
Climbers. —All the tender ones are to be removed 
from the trellises and protected by a slight cover¬ 
ing of earth. The Wistaria will not flourish in 
many northern localities without this care. 
Chrysanthemums —Keep neatly tied up, and when 
the frost has destroyed the flowers, the roots may 
be taken up, divided, and re-set. 
Dahlias. —Lift the roots on a fine day, before 
freezing weather. Care should be taken not to 
break the roots from the stem. Be sure to have 
them correctly labeled before they are put away. 
Dry the roots for a few hours in the sun, and store 
away in a cool vegetable cellar, under the stage of 
the green house, or in boxes, or barrels of dry sand, 
in any place where they will not freeze. 
Hedges of deciduous shrubs may be set now. 
Hedges of dwarf pears are highly recommended 
by friends who have tried them. The young trees 
are set two feet apart and grown like any other 
hedge; they fruit very well treated in this way. 
Such a hedge would be an appropriate boundary 
between a fruit and flower garden. 
Frames and Pits. —The plants in these should 
have air every fine day and be carefully covered at 
night. If mice trouble them, set poison or traps. 
Lawns. —Rake off the fallen leaves. These will be 
needed for protecting plants in the borders, or as 
additions to the compost heap. Give a good top¬ 
dressing of fine compost, and roll if necessary. 
Perennials —Phloxes, Dicentra , and others, may 
be divided and replanted. 
Roses. —The tender varieties may be potted and 
placed in a pit, or cool part of the green house, or 
be wintered in the cellar. The climbing sorts do 
better if laid upon the ground during Wint er. 
Protect all tender things. Even hardy herbaceous 
plants will come out all the better in the Spring, if 
a few forkfuls of manure are pat over their roots. 
The broadleaved evergreens, such as Kalmias, Rho¬ 
dodendrons, Holly-leaved Barberr}', etc., need some 
shelter. Cedar boughs stuck in among them, or a 
rough thatch of boughs made over them, seem to 
answer better than tying up in straw. Where 
evergreen boughs cannot be had, a screen can be 
made with sticks, and a few bundles of straw. 
This is not needed so much as a protection from 
the cold of Winter, as to shield them from the 
changes of temperature in Spring. Even with the 
Rhododendron some care of this kind will repay 
all the trouble it costs. 
Shrubs and Ornamental Trees. —Hardy sorts may 
be planted now, taking plenty of time to do it well. 
Green and Hot-Houses. 
In this country any glass house for plants is 
popularly called a green or hot house, without mak¬ 
ing any distinction between the two. Strictly 
speaking, a green-house is a building intended to 
preserve tender plants from the effects of frost, 
and without any regard to growing them. The 
temperature is kept low—from 35° to 45°. In the 
hot-house plants are to grow and flower, and the 
temperature ranges from 60° to 75°, or even higher, 
according to the character of the plants it contains. 
Some houses are constructed with a partition, and 
the heating apparatus so arranged that the advan¬ 
tages of both a green and hot house can be com¬ 
bined under one roof. Of course directions for 
management can be given only in the most general 
terms, as each house will require a treatment cor¬ 
responding with the end to be accomplished. 
Where the green-house is used merely for 
storing plants, the care required is but little. 
Having put the house properly in order, and 
stored it with those plants needing winter protec¬ 
tion, or which are only to be forced at a future 
time, attend particularly to ventilation, as the 
change from out-door air to a confined room 
should not be suddenly made. During rains, fogs, 
and frosty weather, the doors and windows should 
be closed, and before the end of the mouth some 
fire heat will be beneficial. Little water will be 
needed, and but little care in other respects; the 
