CHAPTER XIII 
UGANDA, AND THE GREAT NYANZA LAKES 
When we left Nairobi it was with real regret that we 
said good-by to the many friends who had been so kind 
to us; officials, private citizens, almost every one we had 
met—including Sir Percy Girouard, the new governor. At 
Kijabe the men and women from the American Mission— 
and the children too^—were down at the station to wish us 
good luck; and at Nakuru the settlers from the neighbor¬ 
hood gathered on the platform to give us a farewell cheer. 
The following morning we reached Kisumu on Lake 
Victoria Nyanza. It is in the Kavirondo country, where 
the natives, both men and women, as a rule go absolutely 
naked, although they are peaceable and industrious. In 
the native market they had brought in baskets, iron spade 
heads, and food, to sell to the native and Indian traders who 
had their booths round about; the meat market, under the 
trees, was especially interesting. 
At noon we embarked in a smart little steamer, to cross 
the lake. Twenty-four hours later we landed at Entebbe, the 
seat of the English Governor of Uganda. Throughout our 
passage the wind hardly ruffied the smooth surface of the 
lake. As we steamed away from the eastern shore the 
mountains behind us and on our right hand rose harsh and 
barren, yet with a kind of forbidding beauty. Dark clouds 
hung over the land we had left, and a rainbow stretched 
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