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ch. xiii] KAMPALLA : MOSQUITOES 
for ourselves ; the latter with open sides, the roof upheld 
by cane pillars, so that it was cool and comfortable, and 
afforded a welcome shelter, either from the burning sun 
if the weather was clear, or from the pelting, driving 
tropical storms if there was rain. The moon was 
almost full when we left Kampalla, and night after 
night it lent a half-unearthly beauty to the tropical 
landscape. 
Sometimes in the evenings the mosquitoes bothered 
us ; more often they did not; but in any event we slept 
well under our nettings. Usually at each camp we 
found either the head chief of the district or a sub¬ 
chief with presents — eggs, chickens, sheep, once or 
twice a bullock, always pine-apples and bananas. The 
chief was always well dressed in flowing robes, and 
usually welcomed us with dignity and courtesy (some¬ 
times, however, permitting the courtesy to assume the 
form of servility); and we would have him in to tea, 
where he was sure to enjoy the bread and jam. Some¬ 
times he came in a rickshaw, sometimes in a kind of 
wickerwork palanquin, sometimes on foot. When we 
left his territory we made him a return gift. 
We avoided all old camping-grounds, because of the 
spirillum tick. This dangerous fever tick is one of 
the insect scourges of Uganda, for its bite brings on a 
virulent spirillum fever, which lasts intermittently for 
months, and may be accompanied by partial paralysis. 
It is common on old camping grounds and in native 
villages. The malarial mosquitoes also abound in 
places ; and repeated attacks of malaria pave the way 
for black-water fever, which is often fatal. 
The first day’s march from Kampalla led us through 
shambas, the fields of sweet potatoes and plantations 
of bananas being separated by hedges or by cane fences. 
