206 
JOURNEY TO OB BO. 
[chap. vnr. 
loaded donkeys could be hoisted over the numerous 
blocks of granite that formed an irregular flight of 
steps, like the ascent of the great pyramid : however,, 
by pulling at their ears, and pushing behind, all except 
one succeeded in gaining the summit; he was aban¬ 
doned on the pass. 
We were now in the heart of the mountains, and a 
beautiful valley, well wooded and about six miles in 
width, lay before us, forming the basin of the Kanleti 
river that we had formerly crossed at Wakkala, between 
Ellyria and Latooka. 
Fording this stream in a rapid current, we crossed 
with difficulty, the donkeys wetting all their loads. 
This was of no great consequence, as a violent storm 
suddenly overtook us and soaked everyone as thoroughly 
as the donkeys’ packs. A few wild plantains afforded 
leaves which we endeavoured to use as screens, but 
the rain drops were far too heavy for such feeble pro¬ 
tection. Within a mile of the river we determined 
to bivouac, as the evening had arrived, and in such 
weather an advance was out of the question. The tent 
having been left at Latooka, there was no help for it, 
and we were obliged to rest contented with our position 
upon about an acre of clean rock plateau, upon which 
we lighted an enormous fire, and crouched shivering 
round the blaze. No grass was cut for the animals, as 
the men had been too busy in collecting firewood suffi¬ 
cient to last throughout the night. Some fowls that 
we had brought from Latooka had been drowned by 
the rain ; thus my Mahommedan followers refused to 
eat them, as their throats had not been cut. Not being 
so scrupulous, and wonderfully hungry in the cold 
rain, Mrs. Baker and I converted them into a stew, 
and then took refuge, wet and miserable, under our 
untanned ox-hides until the following morning. Al¬ 
though an ox-hide is not waterproof, it will keep out a, 
considerable amount of wet; but when thoroughly 
saturated, it is about as comfortable as any other wet 
leather, with the additional charm of an exceedingly' 
