508 
ARRIVAL AT SUEZ. 
[chap, xix! 
a regiment of Egyptian troops, under Giaffer Pasha, to 
quell the mutiny of the black troops at Kassala, twenty 
days’ march in the interior. The General Giaffer Pasha, 
and Mustapha Bey the captain of the frigate, gave us 
an entertainment on board in English style, in honour 
of the completion of the Nile discovery. Giaffer Pasha 
most kindly placed the frigate at our disposal to convey 
us to Suez, and both he and Mustapha Bey endeavoured 
in every way to accommodate us. For their extreme 
courtesy I take this opportunity of making my acknow¬ 
ledgment. 
Orders for sailing had been received, but suddenly a 
steamer was signalled as arriving : this was a transport 
with troops. As she was to return immediately to 
Suez, I preferred the dirty transport rather than incur 
a further delay. We started from Souakim, and in five 
days’ voyage we arrived at Suez. Landing from the 
steamer, I once more found myself in an English hotel. 
The spacious inner court was arranged as an open 
conservatory; in this was a bar for refreshments, with 
“ Allsopp’s Pale Ale” on draught, with an ice accompani¬ 
ment. What an Elysium !! The beds had sheets and 
pillow-cases! neither of which I had possessed for 
years. 
The hotel was thronged with passengers to India, 
with rosy, blooming English ladies, and crowds of my 
own countrymen. I felt inclined to talk to everybody. 
Never was I so in love with my own countrymen and 
women; but they (I mean the ladies) all had large 
balls of hair at the backs of their heads!! What 
an extraordinary change ! I called Richarn, my pet 
savage from the heart of Africa, to admire them. “ Now, 
Richarn, look at them ! ” I said. “ What do you think 
of the English ladies ? eh, Richarn ? Are they not 
lovely ? ” 
“ Wah Illahi!” exclaimed the astonished Richarn, 
“ they are beautiful! What hair ! they are not like 
the negro savages, who work other people’s hair into 
