58 
In the Heart of Africa 
behind the chairs on which we were sitting with the Sultan, as 
well as opposite them, forming a lane, and awaiting the appear¬ 
ance of the gifts with painfully subdued excitement. And they 
came—came in endless succession. In front was a milch cow, 
whose calf was carried behind. She was intended to represent 
the greatest honour that could befall me. She was followed by 
ten oxen, with immense horns, and then a never-ending herd 
of goats. Flock followed flock, fresh contingents constantly 
rolling up and overflowing the cantonment. They were suc¬ 
ceeded by an endless chain of heavy-laden Wahutu, with hun¬ 
dreds of loads, consisting of meal, milk, honey, butter, beans 
and bananas. After them appeared other trains bearing fire¬ 
wood—^which was rare in the neighbourhood, and therefore par¬ 
ticularly valuable. All these treasures were stored away in the 
camp, but the stock were driven into a hedged enclosure and 
placed under the guardianship of an Askari patrol. The pro¬ 
cession had taken nearly an hour to pass by. Von Grawert him¬ 
self, in spite of his lengthy term of office as Resident, declared 
that he had never before witnessed such an imposing spectacle. 
The great and overwhelming fear of a refusal of the gifts 
having passed, Msinga’s court breathed freely again. The visit 
was at an end, and with solemn farewells the sovereign entered 
his litter and was borne away, followed by a forest of five 
hundred spears. An ineffaceable impression! 
The return visit in the afternoon was conducted with as much 
splendour as it was possible for a travelling caravan to offer. 
In addition to the ordinary gifts of stuffs and beads customary 
in the country, others were specially selected with the hope of 
“ lightening up the countenance of the ruler ” and rejoicing his 
heart. Any real equivalent to his own gifts was, of course, 
impossible. Preceded by Askari with flying flags, followed by 
all the “boys,” each carrying a present in his outstretched arms, 
and with horns blowing, we entered the Sultan’s courtyard, which 
is brightly and cleanly kept, and passed on to the palace, which 
is bordered round by a hedging of wicker-work and papyrus. 
After an interchange of the customary greetings and when we 
