Through Ruanda to Lake Kiwu 63 
the shape of a most welcome parcel of fresh tomatoes and 
vegetables. This was a great treat, our enjoyment of which 
could not be adequately appreciated save by Europeans who had 
suffered, like ourselves, from long deprivation of such luxuries. 
If we were going to fulfil satisfactorily the various tasks we 
had set ourselves, it was now high time that we were once more 
on the move. So we resolved upon an early departure. 
The most singular fact associated with our visit was that 
we never once came face to face with a Watussi woman. It 
appeared that they had been carefully guarded in their huts the 
whole of the time, so that they might not meet the eye of any 
of the “whites.” 
When we took our leave of the Sultan, at early dawn on 
the 12th of August, it was with a certain amount of satisfaction. 
We had been afforded an insight into the court life of a negro 
prince and favoured with a display of his power such as no 
one had ever experienced previously, or would probably ever 
experience again. When the illimitable power of this Sultan 
has receded before European influence, and when busy throngs 
of traders encroach upon the haughty aloofness of this most 
aristocratic of all negro tribes, and the white man’s herds graze 
in its pastures, then we shall be able to appreciate to the full 
the value of our remarkable experience. 
Our last day with Msinga brought about a decision which 
proved later to be a most happy one, and was due to Captain von 
Grawert. He had told our botanist, Mildbraed, of the wealth to 
be found in the forest of Rugege, which clothed the marginal 
mountains of Lake Kiwu between Niansa and Ischangi. He 
spoke of its tree-ferns and of its masses of begonias, and strongly 
advised him to make an excursion in that direction. As Schubotz, 
the zoologist, was inclined to join in, this meant a further split¬ 
ting-up of the expedition. So while the main body marched on 
with von Grawert towards the eastern bay of Lake Kiwu, and met 
with the events which I shall describe in the final pages, the two 
biologists traversed the Rugege forest towards Ischangi, at the 
southern end of the lake, whence Grawert was to fetch them 
