8 o 
In the Heart of Africa 
The development of Kissenji is amazing. In 1906 the town 
consisted merely of a few native huts. In order to map out the 
new roads which had to be made Captain von Grawert and 
Lieutenant Ullrich had to cut their way with axes through the 
densest brushwood. And at the time of our visit, after but an 
interval of twelve months, one was astonished to see there a 
flourishing and daily growing trading centre with a population 
of eight hundred people and eighty Duka* in which brisk 
business was always going on. The development of this place 
is primarily attributable to the energy and the astute policy of 
Lieutenant Knecht, who took over the administration of the 
town soon after it was laid out, and affords another striking 
proof of the efficiency of the German officer when he is allowed 
a free hand for the exercise of his power and abilities. 
After our prolonged period of tent life it was almost like 
being in a large city again. The dejection of the carriers soon 
changed to a state of cheerfulness, and perpetual applications for 
advances were made for the purpose of polishing up their out¬ 
ward appearance, which had naturally suffered from neglect on 
the route. 
We took supper in the company of Father Superior Bar- 
thelemy and some of his brethren at the little tea-house, which 
from its commanding position offered a magnificent view over the 
whole northern inlet of the lake and across the volcanic chain. 
A few hours later our land caravan came in, with everything 
in good order, under the safe conduct of the non-commissioned 
officer and my servant. 
There was a good deal of detail to be seen to and arranged 
before we could contemplate special visits round the neighbour¬ 
hood of Kissenji, to the islands of the lake, the Bugoie Forest, the 
volcanoes, etc. 
We dismissed the Wahaia carriers of Bukoba, who had till 
then rendered faithful service to the caravan and kept in perfect 
health in spite of the shortness of bananas, which constitute their 
main diet. In their place we found two hundred fresh carriers 
♦ Duka, store or shop. 
