82 
In the Heart of Africa 
banished. The natural coolness prevalent in consequence makes 
a visit there a very agreeable experience. The man who has this 
place allotted to him for his sphere of activity draws a prize. In 
front are the swirling breakers of the most beautiful of all the 
Central African lakes, framed in by banks which fall back 
steeply from the rugged masses of rock; at the rear the stately 
summits of the eight Virunga volcanoes. Truly he who has once 
seen this delightful spot, and who has had the good fortune to 
view the nocturnal skies when illuminated by the glowing blood- 
red colours reflected by the flowing lava of the active crater of 
Namlagira, has added a pearl to the treasure chest of his 
memories, inalienable for life. 
A more grandiose spectacle still awaited us on the evening 
of the 29th of August. It was glowing red in the heavens as far 
as lone could see, and the mighty crater of Namlagira was 
thundering prodigiously. Fireworks of glowing rock and stone 
flashed up high in the air. A column of smoke, illuminated 
brightly by the fiery reflection of the outbreak, rose slowly up into 
dizzy heights, and then expanded mushroom-like for many miles 
around. We stood long admiring this natural phenomenon, over¬ 
come by its majesty, until the gradual fading of the glow in¬ 
dicated the end of the eruption. 
The delightful recollection of this scene was rudely dispelled 
the next day, for a Job’s messenger arrived with the news that a 
mail caravan with its various loads organised for our benefit had 
been attacked and pillaged by the Ruanda aboriginals. Captain 
Grawert being still away, measures for regaining possession had 
to remain in abeyance. However, an energetic protest despatched 
to Msinga soon brought about the desired result. We were 
quickly placed in possession of the complete mail from Europe 
and all the plundered goods. The ringleader of the attack, 
however, met with a heavy punishment. Msinga had him seized, 
and then pierced through with a sharp stake before the eyes of 
the people. The body of the robber was then exposed for weeks 
to serve as an example of the sovereign will of the ruler of 
Ruanda. 
