94 
In the Heart of Africa 
necessary, and reason has to be rammed into their heads; con¬ 
sequently when we left Kissenji we distributed our party in 
such a manner that there was a trustworthy and dependable man 
in each boat. Mildbraed and I sat in the two bigger ones, and 
in the others there were always an Askari, my faithful old 
carrier-leader Compania, our cook Majuto, and Hassani, one of 
our native assistants, to fill such places of honour. Each of these 
was given strict orders to see that the boats were kept close 
together. 
We had reason to be thankful for these measures even on the 
first day on our passage between Kissenji and the island of 
Mugarura. Amdallah’s canoe, which was packed with zoological 
material, drew water, and, as bailing was of no avail, she had 
to be escorted by her two neighbouring boats and drawn up on 
the strand, two hours’ distance from Kissenji. Amdallah waited 
there until another boat could be sent along from Kissenji to re¬ 
ship the loads. The journey from Kissenji to the island of 
Mugarura is not of so much interest as the reverse journey. One 
does not get the splendid view of the grand scenery of the 
northern shore and the Virunga volcanic chain, which is to be 
enjoyed when coming from the south in fine weather. The hills 
and mountain summits of the eastern shore are not wooded and 
are either clothed with steppe grass or native vegetation. They 
are fatiguing to the eye, and so when the sun rises higher by 
degrees, and its burning rays shoot down mercilessly on pith 
helmets and its reflected light on the surface of the water hurts 
one’s eyes, there is nothing better to be done than to bury one’s 
face deep in the helmet and attempt to sleep. The uniform, 
monotonous strokes of the oars help to make it more than an 
attempt. Now and again beautiful dreams are disturbed by 
the call of a boy ” or of the rowers: ‘‘ Fissimaji, bana ” (“ Master, 
an otter! ”) Then one’s hand steals towards the gun always kept 
in readiness for this purpose in the bow of the boat, and the 
hunt (generally useless) for the wily fish-stealer begins. Otters 
are the sole large amphibious inhabitants of Lake Kiwu. Neither 
hippopotami nor crocodiles are found there; the latter, indeed. 
