Lake Kiwu and its Islands 103 
with the natives, so we sent off a boat at once to bring him 
along. 
The natives of Kwidschwi are much shyer than those of 
Ruanda. In consequence of repeated attacks made upon them 
by the Watussi, they regard all arrivals with mistrust. Their 
numbers are estimated by Kandt at about 20,000, and are believed 
to comprise all the sea-dwelling tribes, whose members look upon 
the island as a harbour of refuge for those who, for some reason 
or other, are weary of their homes. Kwidschwi was still a pro¬ 
vince of Ruanda during the rule of Luabugiri, Juhi Msinga’s 
predecessor, but freed herself from the oppressive yoke of the 
Watussi after the death of Luabugiri, and is now an independent 
sultanate, under the sovereignty of Mihigos. The latter avoids 
contact with Europeans, and all negotiations with him have to 
take place through his subordinate chief, Tamate. The islanders 
are diligent husbandmen, but possess little live stock. It is 
stated that the Watussi robbed them of it—at least, they say so. 
Although possessing the sturdy muscular physique of the 
Wahutu, they are easily distinguishable by their striking head¬ 
dress. The characteristic half-moon shaped coiffure worn by the 
Wanjaruanda is not usual there. In its stead a long hair plait 
stands out in sharp contrast against the shaven temples and 
occiput. The style of their huts and clothing, especially as 
regards the women, is similar to those of the Wahutu. We dis¬ 
covered many little hamlets hidden away in banana groves in 
the neighbourhood of our tents. At first their inhabitants con¬ 
cealed themselves from us, and the doors of the huts were care¬ 
fully barred, but they soon became more trustful. Our occupa¬ 
tion of collecting all kinds of small creatures and plants certainly 
aroused their wonder, but did not serve to convince them of the 
friendly character of our visit. Three or four days after our 
arrival I was passing a village, when the senior villager ap¬ 
proached me and said, '‘Jambo mami ” (“Good day, gracious 
sir ”), striking his left thigh and his forehead with his left hand, 
and stretching it out to me. A jug of fomhe and a bunch of 
bananas were then brought to me as gifts. These were accepted. 
