In the Heart of Africa 
116 
Gotzen crater. According to these, the diameter measures 1,251 
metres, the depth 155 metres, and the diameter of the two eruptive 
shafts 336 and 459 metres respectively. The spectacle presented 
by this gigantic crater is simply stupendous. 
In Count Gbtzen’s time, in 1894, Ninagongo was still in full 
activity, evidences of which were observable up to the year 1906. 
At the time of our visit the two shafts were perfectly quiet and 
peaceful. The numerous clefts and fissures on the floor of the 
crater, from which steam escaped, alone reminded one of the 
volcanic powers slumbering in the depths below. These may 
awaken to action any day, for, in Kirschstein’s judgment, the 
apparent calm of the mountain in no way justifies the assumption 
that Ninagongo is to be counted amongst the extinct volcanoes. 
The mountain is held by the natives to be “ wasimu ” (be¬ 
witched), and their legend has it that any who ascend it must 
perish. Only very few of the enlightened natives believe other¬ 
wise. Our Kissubi preferred^ to avoid risking the anger of the 
spirit of the mountain, and remained behind in camp. It was 
only later, when Kirschstein made the ascent, that he reluctantly 
decided to accompany him to the craters edge. Yet Kirschstein 
was still to experience how far justified were the honest fellow’s 
dread. He himself writes : 
“. . . Anyhow, I have quite spoilt things with Kissubi. My 
amiable Ninagongo companion. Dr. Breuer, of Usumbura, must 
bear the blame, as it was he who inveigled me into firing off my 
gun, as he did himself, to test the remarkable echoes. It was 
in vain that Kissubi warned us that we would awaken the moun¬ 
tain spirit’s vengeance. We laughed at him and his mountain 
goblins. A few weeks later I suffered the loss of half my 
caravan whilst ascending Karissimbi in a snow-storm. That, 
said my black carriers, was Ninagongo’s vengeance. ...” 
The echo of a shot fired breaks—as I have myself experienced 
—a thousandfold against the rocks, and it appears as if the sound 
were raging round and round the crater walls incessantly, unable 
to discover a way out. No wonder, then, that the spirit of the 
mountain waxes wrathful. His name is Gongo. He is the chief 
