222 
In the Heart of Africa 
Here, likewise, every wish that we expressed was courteously 
acceded to^ and valuable information of all kinds imparted. 
The sudden change from the oppressive heat to a cool tem¬ 
perature had affected Wiese’s health. Consequently we claimed 
our hosts’ hospitality for a day longer than we had intended, 
and then set out northwards towards Lake Albert, following the 
course of the Semliki. The river flows sluggishly, growing 
broader and then narrower again. Hippopotamus heads popped 
up here and there from the yellow waters, and on the sandy 
banks dozens of crocodiles sunned themselves; motionless, with 
gaping jaws, they formed a typical picture of indolence. Iso¬ 
lated borassus palms raised their curled heads aloft, their 
slender stems being mirrored on the water’s surface as though 
conscious of their beauty. With their sandy surroundings they 
conjured up pictures and memories of Egypt. Detached villages 
dotted on the landscape here and there lent animation to the 
scene, although they appeared to be sparsely inhabited. Our 
thermometer registered 40 degrees Celsius when we pitched our 
tents in the neighbourhood of the bed of the Ethengi. 
A few days later we reached the western marginal mountain 
of the rift-valley. On our right the plain gradually merged into 
a sea of reeds stretching on for an illimitable distance. With 
the aid of our glasses we descried in the distance the grey backs 
of elephants comfortably sunning themselves, although the 
shimmering waves of hot air rendered clear outlines almost im¬ 
possible. At length we chanced on a small wood that promised 
cool, refreshing shade. On entering its inviting retreat there was 
commotion in the foliage, and crowds of monkeys, including 
beautiful specimens of the colobus, with long white-haired 
backs, sprang from tree to tree reviling us. 
Our camp was erected at Boguma, close to crumbling, 
thatched huts which gave evidence of the activity of the British 
Boundary Commission. Unfortunately the trees around had been 
stripped of their leaves by the elephants to a height of many 
metres, and there was a struggle to reach those that held out 
the greatest promise of shade for our tents. 
