270 
In the Heart of Africa 
that the banks of the river were completely obscured by the rain. 
At these times the captain had no means of keeping his course, 
and we had to anchor immediately. Where a strong wind 
accompanied these downpours we endeavoured to find some 
tolerably sheltered spot near the banks, where we often stayed 
for hours until the weather cleared. Heavy morning mists, too, 
frequently delayed us in starting. 
We arrived at Nouvelle Anvers, which is one of the largest 
stations of the interior, and officered by fifteen white men, on 
the 17th of May. Its numerous substantially built structures 
give an excellent impression. The mission church really amazes 
one by its size and its dignified beauty, and is an excellent 
example of the building powers possessed by the negroes when 
under proper European control. The station is situated in the 
centre of a district that is visited heavily by sleeping sickness. 
This is a fact borne witness to by a hundred patients who were 
lying in the local hospital undergoing the atoxyl treatment. 
The State, as I have previously mentioned, is fully alive to 
the terrible danger of this plague, which is spreading more 
and more in the Upper Congo, and spares no efforts in combating 
it. In the big hospital laboratory at Leopoldville the origin 
and treatment of this dire disease forms a subject of most serious 
scientific study, but, so far, no positive and lasting success has 
resulted. 
Coquilhatville, our next stopping place, is the terminus of 
the telegraphic connection with the coast. It is a very attractive 
looking spot and lies in the midst of beautiful horticultural 
gardens. The Commissaire Royal, M. Henry, a special ambas¬ 
sador from the sovereign, was stopping there. He was travelling 
under supreme commission of State to examine into the conditions 
of the stations and the state of the natives, and was to report 
later direct to His Majesty. These visits, which are repeated 
at intervals, prove beyond doubt that the Government is actuated 
by the best of motives, and does all in its power to protect the 
natives from any injustices. 
Twenty minutes’ steaming sufficed to bring us to Eala, the 
