388 
FEARS OF THE MAKOLOLO. 
Chap. XIX. 
that this last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the two rainy 
seasons with which this country is favoured, sometimes proves 
troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat has 
ever been tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The 
great complaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to 
carry then’ produce to market. Here all kinds of food are re¬ 
markably cheap. 
Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we de¬ 
scended towards the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more 
sterile uninviting aspect. On our right ran the river Senza, which 
nearer the sea takes the name of Bengo. It is about fifty yards 
broad, and navigable for canoes. The low plains adjacent to its 
banks are protected from inundation by embankments, and the 
population is entnely occupied in raising food and fruits for ex¬ 
portation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested 
by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Hot 
one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken into 
the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my escape 
and lie across the path on the lee side of the fire, where the 
smoke blew over my body. My host wondered at my want of 
taste, and I at his want of feeling, for, to our astonishment, he, 
and the other inhabitants, had actually become used to what was 
at least equal to a nail through the heel of one’s boot, or the 
tooth-ache. 
As we were now drawing near to the sea, my companions were 
looking at everything in a serious hght. One of them asked me 
if we should all have an oj)portunity of watchiug each other at 
Loanda. ‘‘ Suppose one went for water, would the others see if he 
were kidnapped ? ” I replied, “ I see what you are driving at; 
and if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as ignorant of 
Loanda as you are: but nothing will happen to you but what 
happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and 
will do so to the last.” The plains adjacent to Loanda are some¬ 
what elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming across these 
we first beheld the sea : my companions looked upon the bound¬ 
less ocean with awe. On describing their feelings afterwards, they 
remarked that “ we marched along with our father, believing that 
what the ancients had always told us was true, that the world has 
no end; but all at once the world said to us, ‘ I am finished; 
