Chap. XXII. 
CEOSSING THE QUANGO. 
441 
luxurious climate as much as it is possible for man to do. I have 
often thought, in travelhng tlrrough their land, that it presents 
pictures of beauty which angels might enjoy. How often have I 
beheld, in still mornings, scenes the very essence of beauty, and all 
bathed in a quiet air of dehcious warmth! yet the occasional soft 
motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness as of a fan. 
Green grassy meadows, the cattle feeding, the goats browsing, 
the kids skipping, the groups of herdboys with miniature bows, 
arrows, and spears; the women wending their way to the river 
with watering-pots poised jauntily on their heads; men sewing 
under the shady banians; and old grey-headed fathers sitting on 
the ground, with staff in hand, hstening to the morning gossip, 
while others carry trees or branches to repair their hedges; and 
aU this, flooded with the bright African sunshine, and the birds 
singing among the branches before the heat of the day has 
become intense, form pictures which can never be forgotten. 
We were informed that a chief named Gando, hving on the 
other side of the river, having been accused of witchcraft, was 
kflled by the ordeal, and his body thrown into the Quango. 
The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of cahco, but received six 
thankfully. The canoes were wretched, carrymg only two persons 
at a time; but my men being well acquainted with the water, we 
aU got over in about two hours and a half. They excited the 
admiration of the inliabitants by the manner in which they 
managed the cattle and donkeys in crossiug. The most stubborn 
of beasts found himself powerless in their hands. Five or six, 
seiziug hold on one, bundled him at once into the stream, and, in 
this predicament, he always thought it best pohcy to give in and 
swim. The men sometimes swam along with the cattle, and forced 
them to go on by dashing water at their heads. The difference 
between my men and those of the native traders who accompanied 
us, was never more apparent than now; for while my men felt an 
interest in everytliing we possessed in common, theirs were rather 
glad when the oxen refused to cross, for, being obhged to slaughter 
them on such occasions, the loss to their masters was a welcome 
feast to themselves. 
On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without visitiug 
our friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence of some 
Ambakistas who had crossed the river in order to secure the first 
