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these wagtails feeding among water-lilies, and there was 
a pretty rivalry in colours between the gorgeous golden 
breasts of the birds—set off by velvet-black skullcaps— 
and the golden petals of the flowers. 
(iv) Rejaf 
Rejaf, my “farthest south,” leaves many memories— 
above all that inspiring vista of Afric’s “ Central Divide,” 
the parting of Nile and Congo, which can be enjoyed 
after a couple of hours’ ramble along the rocky ridges 
west of Rejaf koppie. Thence, as from Pisgeh, opens 
up a glorious breadth of game-country stretching away 
to the mountains of the Congo, and specially notable 
as a haunt of two of Africa’s biggest and least-known 
mammals—the giant eland and white rhinoceros. That 
Eden, however, is closed to sportsmen by reason of the 
prevailing “sleeping-sickness.” The only large animals 
observed were gazelles, certain unidentified hartebeests 
which were either tiang or topi, and two small herds of 
Uganda cob, together with much old elephant-spoor . 1 
Baboons abounded on the crags ; but no vision of the 
chimpanzee fell within my eye-range, nor even of the 
more familiar Colobus monkey, or of the giant forest-hog 
( Hylochoerus), all three of which are recorded to exist in 
these mountain fastnesses. A hawk which I shot on 
these hills—my most southern point—proved to be a 
common English kestrel! 
Here one meets that amiable tribe the Nyam- 
Nyams, cannibals, who, being deprived by insular British 
prejudice of what was reputed their favourite food, have 
1 It was in this region—then known as the Lado Enclave (which was 
leased for his lifetime to King Leopold of Belgium)—that there was per¬ 
petrated that massacre of elephants which a few years ago “staggered 
humanity.” This occurred during the interregnum between the death of 
Leopold and the resumption of British control. What the exact slaughter 
amounted to, there is no means of knowing. Undoubtedly it was indis¬ 
criminate and brutal; but much of the sensationalism that trickled into 
the newspapers read like the quintessence of silliness. 
