A VISIT TO LA VERNIA 
opposite the Virgin, bears a striking resemblance to 
the well-known head of S. Giovanni Gualberto in 
the Vallombrosa altar-piece by Perugino, and shows 
how near this artist in terra-cotta came to the highest 
achievements of the best Umbrian masters. In re¬ 
finement of type and sincerity of devotional emotion, 
Andrea della Robbia’s sorrowing saints yield to none 
of his contemporaries’ creations, while the twenty- 
three cherub-heads, each different and each instinct 
with life, set in the frame of the altar-piece, have all 
the charm and innocent grace which belong to Luca’s 
children. 
After showing us many other smaller chapels, our 
guide led us down rudely cut steps to different caves 
hidden in the rock, each hallowed by the presence of 
Francis, or by the memory of some heavenly vision 
which appeared to him. The peasants and children 
who accompanied us listened intently to the glowing 
language in which the monk described each separate 
incident of the story, and falling on their knees re¬ 
peated a Pater Noster and Gloria Patri devoutly after 
him. 
Our courteous guide was now summoned away to 
attend to other duties, but before taking his leave, 
he led us across the piazza to the guest chamber, 
where we were hospitably entertained by a lay-brother. 
We had a companion at dinner in the person of the 
269 
