SANTA CRUZ . 
19 
peasants is chiefly remarkable for a heavy woollen blanket which they fasten round the neck 
with a string, so that, seen from a distance, they have the appearance of perambulating sacks. 
The most artistic monument in Santa Cruz is the obelisk which adorns the principal 
plaza or public square. The shaft is surmounted by an 
image of the Virgin and Child, and below are ranged four 
statues, said to be the effigies of native kings converted to 
the Christian faith by their Spanish conquerors. The 
“ Guanches,” the race over which they ruled, have left nothing 
but their name and a few mummies. At the corners of the 
base are four well-carved figures of children, representing the 
Seasons. 
The month of February offered but a remote chance of 
a successful ascent of the “ Pico de Teyde,” as the great 
mountain is called here. Nevertheless, a party of officers and 
civilians started for this purpose shortly after our arrival. 
After a brave struggle they attained a height of 9000 feet 
abo^e the sea-level ; but the remaining 3000 feet being covered 
with snow, the guides refused to go any farther. Meantime, 
the “Challenger” had left her anchorage for a sounding-cruise round the island. On the 
morning of the 10th, when we had got clear of the land, we obtained the first view of the 
Peak. Late on the evening of the nth, as we were sailing along the north coast of the 
island, our attention was attracted by what seemed to be a white cloud, but which, a moment 
after, assumed the delicate outline of the snow-covered volcano. Far above the bank of 
clouds which concealed the lower 
regions, it rose like a huge silvery 
tent, vying in silent splendour 
with the light of the stars which 
shone beside it upon the dark 
night sky. 
In steady pursuance of our 
task of sounding, dredging, and 
registering temperatures, we came 
next day in sight of Palma—with 
its “caldera” or volcanic “kettle,” 
from three to four miles wide, 
and bounded by a circle of precipices from 1500 to 2500 feet high an object of no 
less interest than its neighbour, the Peak of Teneriffe. When off Gomera, one of the 
smallest of the Canaries, its sister island Hiero or Ferro—amongst the inhabitants of 
which are said to be some descendants of Columbus was visible above the western 
horizon. 
THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE, 12, 180 FEET, 
