90 
FROM SYDNEY TO TORRES STRAIT 
hair, radiating from the massive square forehead, and taking a pale yellow tint from a light- 
coloured wash which they apply to it, gives them the appearance of veritable children of the 
sun. They are probably the best-looking of Polynesian races—praise which extends to both 
sexes. In the opinion of some travellers, however, the Samoans, Hawaiians, and Tahitians 
are by no means inferior to the Tongans in personal beauty. 
After paying our respects to King George of Tongatabu and his consort Queen Charlotte, 
who received us in their extensive mansion overlooking the beach, 
all the apartments being on the ground floor, surrounded by a 
verandah, we roamed through the avenues of Nukualofa and visited 
the thatched huts of the natives. We received everywhere the most 
hospitable welcome, were invited to squat down on clean mats 
amidst a circle of friendly faces, old and young, and had to watch 
the preparation of the favourite native beverage the “ kava.” The 
latter is extracted from a root, and its bitter, somewhat mawkish 
taste does not recommend it to the new-comer. On the other hand, 
our cigars were much appreciated by both ladies and gentlemen. 
With the native salute of “Alofa” we parted from our entertainers, 
whose courtesy and good-humour were beyond praise. Their dress, 
originally confined to a piece of cloth called “ tapa,” made from the bark of trees and 
wound round the loins, is now more frequently replaced by stuffs and garments of European 
manufacture—light jackets, petticoats, loose gowns, bonnets, hats, and bright-coloured scarfs— 
more or less ill adapted to a Polynesian frame. King George-Tabou is over seventy years 
of age, and his reign has already lasted about forty years, to the apparent advantage of his 
subjects, now all converted to Christianity, and not unfamiliar with 
the mysteries of the “ three R’s.” He is apparently the chief Touboou 
of Nongalofa mentioned in the account of the expedition of the 
“ Astrolabe,” at that time the only Christian chief, and to whom 
D’Urville, when giving up his vessel for lost, proposed an alliance 
offensive and defensive in order to protect his men against an attack 
by the other chiefs in the island, Tahofa and Palou ; but Touboou 
did not consider himself strong enough for such an undertaking, 
and advised D’Urville to “keep to his ship.” Happily the latter 
was got off the reef, and the illustrious navigator was able to 
prepare for his departure. Touboou seems to have subsequently 
overcome the resistance of the other chiefs, with the help of 
the missionaries, and piobably also of more material means. Near the church door is a 
monument erected to the memory of Commander W. Croker of H.M.S. “ Favourite,” who 
was killed in an attack on Bea in June, 1840. The village of that name is situated at the 
western angle of the great lagoon. It was in D’Urville’s time the stronghold of the chief 
Tahofa, and is now the principal station of the Roman Catholic mission. A chief called 
