THE BANDA ISLANDS. 
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one of which, “ Fort Belgica,” crowns the hill at the back of the town, and with its round 
towers at the four corners looks like an old baronial castle ; the other, “ Fort Nassau,” is 
placed at the foot of the hill, and represents a more modern system of fortification. The 
streets of Stad Neira are admirably kept. Planted with trees and lined with carefully 
trimmed grass-plots of the freshest green, they are more like the avenues of a private domain 
than public roads. The whole town has that appearance of neatness, cleanliness, order, and 
comfort which pre-eminently distinguishes Dutch settlements, and gives the visitor the 
impression that the Dutch, perhaps more than any other nation, understand the art of rendering 
life enjoyable. The dwellings are entered through spacious verandahs, and are sheltered from 
the tropical sun by very high roofs. The inhabitants retire to rest during the hot hours of 
the afternoon, but at sunset they turn out for a walk on the terrace along the shore, neither 
sex wearing any head-gear whatever—a fashion we felt strongly tempted to imitate. After 
several months’ sojourn amongst the dark-skinned, black-haired Polynesians, it was quite 
refreshing to see once more the light complexions and flaxen locks of the children of a 
northern race. 
The rule of the Governor—or Resident, as he is styled—of the Banda Islands extends 
as far as the Ivi and Arrou Islands and the south coast of Papua. Besides the Dutch 
officials, the population consists of Malays and Chinese, who live in separate campongs or 
quarters. The colony is used as a penal settlement for the Dutch Indies, and all day long 
gangs of men and women may be seen sweeping the walks, cleaning the ditches, and 
executing other similar tasks, in charge of a man armed with a bamboo, which he 
occasionally applies to the shoulders of lazy or obstinate convicts. The principal branch 
of industry in these islands is the cultivation of the nutmeg tree. The latter is not 
unlike a peach tree, with somewhat larger leaves, and grows to a height of from fifteen 
to twenty-five feet. Most of the plantations are situated upon the slopes of the Groot 
Banda, and after a shower of rain the air is filled with a delicious perfume. 
Earthquakes are said to be of frequent occurrence, though nothing of the sort occurred 
during our stay, nor did Gounong Api—whose latest display dates from the year 1820— 
show any signs of activity. In spite of the fierce sun, a game of cricket was played at the 
foot of the “ smoking mountain,” while our amateur sailors’ band performed for the 
amusement of the natives. 
On the day following our arrival, the steam-pinnace was sent off in search of a small 
Dutch steamer reported to be in distress, and without water and provisions, between this 
port and Ceram. The searchers fell in with a small boat containing the captain and a few of 
his men—all in a very exhausted condition—who had left their ship in order to get assistance 
in Banda. Early on the following day, the 1st October, the “Challenger” went out in search 
of the steamer itself, but after a careful search north, east, and west of Banda, no trace 
of the vessel could be discovered, and we concluded that, favoured perhaps by a southerly 
breeze, it had been able to make the coast of Ceram, distant about fifty miles from this port. 
During this cruise we had a fine view of the little compact group of the Banda Islands. 
