THE STRAITS OF PATAGONIA. 
189 
of several charming' islets, and commands an extensive view of the opposite shore of Concepcion 
Channel, occupied by immense piles of bare rock, thousands of feet in height, and without 
a trace of vegetation. On the 8th another attempt was made to enter Trinidad Channel 
for surveying purposes. The weather was, however, still too boisterous, so, reversing our 
course, we ran down Concepcion Channel before the gale, passed the Guia Narrows about 
noon, and at sunset anchored in Puerto Bueno, at the commencement of Sarmiento Channel. 
The next day being Sunday, it was made a day of well-earned rest. Anchoring as we did 
every evening and starting afresh in the early morning, frequently sounding and dredging, 
manning boats for exploring parties, and so on, the “Challenger” men had had a busy time 
of it, and we were not as yet half-way through the Straits. The latter are of great depth— 
in fact, we obtained soundings in 345, 400, and 565 fathoms. The whole west coast of 
Patagonia, from Chiloe Island to Cape Horn, presents the aspect of a submerged continent, of 
which only the more elevated mountain-ridges have remained above water. 
Undismayed by my recent misadventure, a desire to vary the monotony of life afloat 
induced me to take another walk on shore, 
r 
“ Over hill, over dale, 
Thorough bush, thorough brier,” 
although the forest was dripping from the recent rains. The land around Puerto Bueno has 
been cleared, probably by the ships’ crews who have from time to time taken refuge in this 
pleasant harbour ; and a stream flowing out of a small lake forms a cascade at the head of 
the inlet. On my way back I followed the course of a brook, according to the practice of 
bush travellers, for there is generally a practicable opening in the line of running water; but 
my guide suddenly disappeared in a deep chasm, and I had just time to retrace my steps 
over the slippery rocks. Near this spot I witnessed a pretty sight—a small tree apparently 
alive with humming-birds. About a dozen of these tiny creatures fluttered around its branches, 
like bees about a hive. Next day, the 10th, we passed through Sarmiento Channel, and 
obtained a good view of an immense glacier which flows down the western slopes of the 
Cordillera of Sarmiento. In the course of the evening our vessel entered Smyth Channel, 
and anchored for the night in Isthmus Harbour, which is of very uninviting and desolate 
appearance. Steaming down through Smyth Channel, we entered, about noon on the nth, 
the Strait of Magellan, of classic memory in the annals of geographical discovery. Port 
Churraca, in Desolation Island, sheltered us for that night. Overshadowed by high mountains, 
this port seems to rest in perpetual twilight; and from the deck we could see a large 
snowfield or glacier at an elevation of about 2500 feet. The streams of melted snow found 
their way down to the harbour through gloomy ravines, fully justifying the name bestowed 
upon this island. The following day one of the anchors was broken, and the ship might 
have drifted upon the rocks had not the accident been discovered in time. We next shifted 
our position to Oldfield anchorage, a sort of outer harbour, and of a less gloomy aspect 
than Port Churraca. When we re-entered Magellan Strait on the morning of the 14th, a 
