CHAPTER XX 
We march down the Okovanga—Grand country—Opportunities for settlers— 
Hammar gets parted from the expedition by accident—Natives fishing in the 
Okovanga swamps—Atmospheric temperature rising—In Moremi’s territory 
—Mosquitoes. 
i 
What a strange feeling it was to tramp almost in tlie opposite 
direction from that which by long habit it had become a sort of 
instinct with us to take! We were so accustomed to face the west 
point of the horizon that it seemed as if something was out of 
gear to walk in any other direction. We travelled down the 
right river-bank, south-east by east, for thirteen and a half 
miles, the pack-oxen answering well after the first half of the 
day. The river along here is one of the most beautiful sights 
one could wish to see. Fine green islands with magnificent 
trees occupied the course of the stream, with channels of clear 
deep water running between, and both banks of the river were 
lined with sombre-looking forests of large trees, varied occasion¬ 
ally by strips of the mimosa acacia. As we proceeded we passed 
several small cataracts, hardly more than mere unevennesses in 
the water, which with foaming streaks whirled away, forming 
deep, still pools of water, where hippopotami lolled apparently 
in great comfort in their congenial surroundings. What a cruel 
misjudgment of nature to populate so gloriously lovely a place 
with such a despicable race of inhabitants ! 
This country is marvellously fertile in soil, with a mighty 
water power that could be easily utilised owing to the lowness 
of the banks confining the river, and the rapid fall of the 
country, for irrigation purposes on a scale stupendous in its 
