74 
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ. 
respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried 
further. The guests besides ourselves, were our Mehmandar and the 
Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation: in talking of 
the admirable skill with which the guns of the Nereide were fired in 
the re-capture of the Sylph , the Mehmandar said to the Secretary, 
“ you ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution w as so 
“ effectual; and walked around and around them, and in gratitude for 
“ your deliverance, to have put up prayers to Heaven for their preser- 
st vation and prosperity." 
After having sat some time kaleoons were brought in, then coffee, 
then kaleoons , then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of 
sugar and rose-water); and then kaleoons again. All this was rapidly 
performed, when the Khan called for dinner. On the ground before us 
was spread the sofra, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched 
our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated 
fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very 
savory smell; but the Persians are content, for they say that changing 
the sofra brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest; 
on these trays were three fine china bonds, which were filled with sher¬ 
bets ; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite species of 
lemonade. There were besides, fruits ready cut, plates with elegant 
little arrangements of sweetmeats and confectionary, and smaller cups 
of sweet sherbet; the whole of which were placed most symetrically, 
and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In the vases of 
sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep bowls, and 
worked so delicately, that the long handle just slightly bent wdien 
it was carried to the mouth. The pillaus succeeded, three of which were 
placed before each two guests; one of plain rice called the chillo, one 
made of mutton with raisins and almonds, the other of a fowl, with rich 
spices and plumbs. To this were added various dishes with rich sauces, 
and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce. Their cooking, indeed, 
is mostly composed of sweets. The business of eating was a pleasure 
to the Persians, but it was misery to us. The} r comfortably advanced 
