162 
ISPAHAN. 
The Envoy intimated, that he would receive no istakball, unless the 
Governor headed it. Two of the chief men of the place met us, as we 
arrived at the entrance of a fine spacious road, between two lofty walls. 
This was the beginning of the Ispahan gardens, yet the walls of the 
city itself were still a mile from us. We turned to the left through a 
narrow porch, which led us into a piece of ground, planted on one 
side by lofty chenar trees, and bounded on the other by the beautiful 
river Zaiande-rood. At the extremity of this spot was a tent. We 
were told, that it had been prepared by the Governor for the Envoy, 
and that he himself was there in waiting. The Envoy stopped his 
horse, and declared, that unless he was met by the Governor on horse¬ 
back, he would take no notice of him, but proceed to his own tents, and 
march straight forward to Teheran. This produced the desired effect. 
The Governor came forth, and met us a few paces from his tent, and 
we then proceeded towards it and alighted. The place, where the 
tent was pitched, was called Sa-atahad; a pavilion had been built there 
by Shah Thamas. The tent itself rested on three poles; its sides 
were of open worked chintz, and its floor was strewed with carpets; 
on which were laid out fruits and sweetmeats in great profusion. 
Chairs of an old-fashion, like those in the sculptures at Persepolis, were 
prepared for us, and we were not put to the inconvenience of pulling 
off our boots. We were then served with haleoons , and afterwards with 
sweetmeats. 
When this ceremony was over, w r e proceeded along the banks of the 
Zaiande-rood , on the opposite side of which were rows of firs, and ancient 
pinasters. We saw three bridges of singular yet beautiful construction. 
That, over which we crossed, was composed of thirty-three lower 
arches, above each of which were ranged three smaller ones. There is 
a covered causeway for foot passengers; the surface of the bridge is 
paved, and is of one level throughout the whole extent. After we had 
crossed it, we proceeded through a gate into the Chahar Bagh, 
which is a very spacious piece of ground, having two rows of chenar 
trees in the middle, and two other rows on each side. The garden is 
