172 
ISPAHAN. 
from India, and their sugarcandy from China. Large quantities of 
sugar come from Cairo also, through Suez. 
The Beglerbeg , or Governor, gave the Envoy and his suite an en¬ 
tertainment which, in one particular only, was more splendid than 
those at Shiraz. The great court and all the avenues were here 
illuminated by a vast number of small lamps, which threw an immense 
blaze of light all over the place. A China drum which the Beglerbeg 
had been keeping for many years till a fit opportunity for the display 
should occur, was now brought forwards. It was suspended on high 
in the middle of the court. The fire was applied to it, but it emitted 
thick vapour with little explosions at intervals ; and though a meschal 
or great torch was at length tried, it only increased the smoke and 
stench, and proved too clearly, that the whole was a Chinese fraud, 
not unfrequently practised on the purchasers of their drums; a little 
gunpowder was placed at the ends indeed, but the centre was stuffed 
with old rags. The other fireworks also were generally miserable, in 
comparison with those at Shiraz. The dinner, (instead of being served 
in the usual manner on the ground) was placed on tables framed for 
the occasion, and was piled up in enormous heaps. The Beglerbeg had 
the further attention to provide us with plates, spoons, knives, and 
forks, which were all in like manner made for the day's entertain¬ 
ment. The spoons were of silver, and that for the Envoy was 
of gold. 
The report, which we had received on the road, that it was 
the intention of the government to detain the Envoy at Ispahan , did 
not prove without foundation. The Beglerbeg said, “ that the Em- 
“ bassador was to stay at Ispahan to see the country at his leisure, 
“ and visit all the fine buildings of the city." However, at a private 
conference which Sir Harford had with him at the Goush Khoneh , 
all this was changed, so that the Beglerbeg was then more anxious 
even than ourselves, that we should proceed to the capital with every 
possible expedition. He now urged on the Envoy, promising all his 
