194 
TEHERAN. 
and said, “ I can believe any thing else but that they light the 
46 streets with globe lamps: you can never make me believe that. Pray 
44 who will pay for them?” 
Mirza Sheffeea entertained us with a breakfast more elegant 
than any of the similar meals to which we had been invited. 
Just before we were rising to depart, the Minister, after having 
talked much on the hopes which he cherished, that the friendship 
of the two nations would long subsist, pulled a diamond ring 
from off his own finger, and placed it on the Envoy's, saying, 
44 And that I may not be thought to be insincere in my profes- 
44 sions, let me beg of you to accept this as a pledge of my friend- 
44 ship for you; and I intreat you to wear it for my sake.” This gift, 
unlike the generosity of Persian presents, was really handsome; it was 
a beautiful stone, perfect in all its parts. 
On the 23d we were invited by the Jemidars (Indian officers) of 
the Envoy's guard, to see that part of the ceremony of the Mohar - 
rem which was appropriated to the day. We ascended an elevated 
platform, surrounded by a great crowd of Persians and Indians, and 
seated ourselves on Nummuds prepared for us. On one side was a 
small ornamented temple, in which was represented the tomb of the 
Jmaum; and all around it were the Indians who had changed their 
regimentals for a variety of fantastical habits, after the fashion of 
their own country. As every Indian can turn fakir , the greater part 
had assumed that character to perform the ceremonial of this feast. 
Many of them arose, and made long speeches (for every man has this 
liberty) on the death of the Imaum , though they intermixed much extra¬ 
neous matter. After this a Persian Mollah, a young man of a brisk 
and animated appearance ascended a temporary pulpit, and commenced 
a species of chaunted sermon proper for the day. At the end of every 
period, he was answered in chorus by the multitude; and when he 
was nearly at the end, and had reached the most pathetic part of his 
harangue, he gave the signal for the people to beat their breasts, which 
they did accordingly with much seeming sincerity, keeping time to his 
