TEHERAN. 
243 
the towers of the Ark. Their watch-word is “ hazir, or ready/' which 
they continually pass from one to the other. They are a distinct body 
from the Kechekchees of the city , who are solely attached to the police 
office, and do the duty of our watchmen, with this difference, that they 
have a right to ascend the tops of the houses in their midnight 
rounds. 
Besides this body-guard of twelve thousand, the King has three 
thousand Goulams or slaves, who are horsemen and always attend him 
when he makes an excursion. All these people, both horse and foot, 
are paid, fed, clothed, armed and mounted at the King's expence. 
Gout am (slave) is here figuratively used to express their devotion to the 
King’s service ; for they are not in reality entered into a state of servi¬ 
tude by actual purchase: on the contrary, they are particularly honoured 
by the King, and his own favourite Ismael Beg is their commander. 
This chief is one of those who still exercise the noose with great skill; it 
is called kummund , and there are some instances of its being still used 
in their engagements. 
DRESS. 
The dress of the Persians is much changed since the time of 
Chardin. It never possessed the dignity and solidity of the Turkish 
dress, and much less now than ever. So materially indeed have their 
fashions altered, that in comparing with the modes of the present day, 
the pictures and descriptions in Chardin and Le Brun, we can 
recognize no longer the same people. If is extraordinary that an 
Asiatic nation, so much charmed by show and brilliancy, (as the 
Persians have always been supposed to be), should have adopted for 
their apparel the dark and sombre colours, which are now universal 
among all ranks. In the reign of the Zund Family indeed, light colours 
were much in vogue; but the present Race, perhaps from a spirit of 
opposition, cherish dark ones. A Persian therefore looks a most melan¬ 
choly personage, and resembles much some of the Armenian Priests 
and Holy Men, whom I have seen in Turkey. Browns, dark olives, 
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