TEHERAN. 
247 
trowser of cloth, called shalwar , into which they insert the skirts of the 
alkalock, as well as the silken trowsers; so that the whole looks like an 
inflated bladder. The shalwar is very useful in carrying light baggage, 
as handkerchiefs, small books, &c. &c. not unfrequently a slight 
meal. 
The Persians shave all the head except a tuft of hair just on 
the crown, and two locks behind the ears: but they suffer their beards 
to grow, and to a much larger size than the Turks, and to spread more 
about the ears and temples. They almost universally dye them black, 
by an operation not very pleasant, and necessary to be repeated gene¬ 
rally once a fortnight. It is always performed in the hot-bath, where 
the hair being well saturated takes the colour better. A thick paste of 
Khenna is first made, which is largely plastered over the beard, and 
which after remaining an hour is all completely washed olf, and leaves 
the hair of a very strong orange colour, bordering upon that of brick- 
dust. After this, as thick a paste is made of the leaf of the indigo, 
(which previously has been pounded to a fine powder), and of this also 
a deep layer is put upon the beard; but this second process, to be taken 
well, requires two full hours. During all this operation, the patient 
lies quietly flat upon his back; whilst the dye (more particularly the 
indigo, which is a great astringent) contracts the features of his face in a 
very mournful manner, and causes all the lower part of the visage to 
smart and burn. When the indigo is at last washed off, the beard is of 
a very dark bottle green, and becomes a jet black only when it has met 
the air for twenty-four hours. Some, indeed, are content with the 
Khenna , or orange colour; others, more fastidious, prefer a beard quite 
blue. The people of Bokhara are famous for their blue beards. It is 
inconceivable how careful the Persians are of this ornament: all the 
young men sigh for it, and grease their chins to hasten the growth 
of the hairs ; because, until they have there a respectable covering, they 
are supposed not fit to enjoy any place of trust. 
Another singular custom is that of dying the hands and feet: this 
rs done by the abovementioned Khenna , which is generally put over 
