310 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
or twelve miles from Diadin , on a bearing of S. 50 W. by the direction 
of a man’s hand; and in the country is called the Frat; the name 
assumed at Arz-roum , by the Western stream. 
At Diadin we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle. 
The houses of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms are 
calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small com¬ 
partment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest of the 
space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their habitations, 
for every door was shut against us; and when, by great management, 
we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our cattle, we 
found equal difficulty in procuring food. Abdulla Pacha, a rebel 
Gourd , with whom Ibrahim Pacha was at open war, had in fact car¬ 
ried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this village. 
We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our horses; 
but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed we paid 
an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each man; 
and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a mess of 
eggs and a basin of yaourt. 
The houses for the Conaks or reception of strangers, here as in all 
other places in Turkey were regularly defined; but when the Mirza and 
I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at the 
door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad 
defiance to the Conak-chee , and (with the most threatening looks, and 
with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her 
dwelling. However, by a little negociation we pacified our hostess, 
and were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our car¬ 
pets and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover 
their faces; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity: 
they appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem 
to be under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses, 
one of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural; 
several Embassadors had been sent to Constantinople , and since that 
