318 
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM. 
bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost 
that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were 
up to their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter, 
and is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same 
temperature adjoin it. 
We had procured a man from the Governor (Cazi) of Hassan 
Caleh , to conduct us to Alwar , but the Aga of that place posi¬ 
tively refused to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms 
that he did not care for Cazi , Pacha , or any one else, and that 
we might go any where we chose; if at least we did not dis^ 
turb Him. After vollies of abuse on both sides, we were content 
as before to take up our quarters in the open fields, under the 
shade of a tree, that luckily was situated near the village, and 
saved us from an ardent sun. Here we saw geese for the 
first time. 
Whilst seated under the tree, vowing vengeance on the Aga of 
Alwar , (having dispatched a man to the Governor of Arz-roum to 
state our case), we were visited by a respectable, yet sly-looking 
Turk, who came quietly and settled himself on our carpet. He begun 
by telling us that he was a yoljee (a traveller) like ourselves; and in¬ 
quired what made us so angry. We broke out into every species of 
invective against the Aga of the village, who had obliged us to remain 
like our horses and mules, under a tree, refusing us the most common 
offices of hospitality; and added, that we had in consequence sent a 
messenger to the Governor of Arz-roum to complain of the affront, 
hoping at the same time that the inhospitable Aga would either lose his 
head, or at least get a severe bastinado. We had some suspicion that 
the personage to whom we were talking was the very Aga himself, and 
were therefore less scrupulous in our abuse. This suspicion proved 
true: our visitor begun by taking the Aga’s part, saying that the coun¬ 
try was in a great state of alarm, and that the people feared to receive 
into their towns so many strangers, and particularly Persians, and 
