CHAP. XVII 
/ ” 
ARZ-ROUM TO AM ASIA® 
aez-roum: description of the city; ancient state: popu¬ 
lation: climate: visit to the governor; entertain¬ 
ment; TURKISH DISHES-DEPARTURE-BATHS OF ILIJA : THE 
DELHIS-THE EUPHRATES-BUILDINGS AT MAMAKHATOUN- 
TRADITION OF THEIR ERECTION-CHIFLIK : CULTIVATION—- 
TARTARS ON THE ROAD FROM CONSTANTINOPLE CARAJA : 
DINNER PERSIAN FROM PARIS STORM GRANDEUR OF THE 
APPROACH TO CARA-HISS AR-DELAY IN THE TOWN--THE 
RIVER KELKI IRMAC, THE ANCIENT LYCUS-RULEY-IIISSAR- 
DIFFERENCE OF PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND IN PERSIA-EXCA¬ 
VATED ROCK-HISTORY OF A BOSNIAN STRANGER-COUNTRY 
ROUND NIKSAR, THE ANCIENT NEOCiESAREA-ENTRANCE INTO 
TOCAT : DESCRIPTION; TRADE-TURKIIAL-STATION OF GUARDS 
-APPROACHES TO AMASIA. 
1809, June 15th. We arrived at Arz-roum, after riding fifteen miles 
on a bearing of W. over a chalky road. The city presents itself in a 
very picturesque manner ; its old minarets and decayed turrets, rising 
abruptly to the view. Our baggage was carried to the Custom-house, 
notwithstanding all our remonstrances and claims of privilege. The 
