ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA. 
321 
caution of the Turks, though in this instance unnecessary, was not un¬ 
justifiable, for a former Persian Embassador had concealed merchants 
in his suite, who, under his name, passed large quantities of fine 
goods. 
Arz-roum is built on a rising ground: on the highest part is the 
castle, surrounded by a double wall of stone, which is chequered at the 
top by embrasures, and strengthened here and there by projections in 
the fashion of bastions, with openings fit for the reception of cannon. 
It has four gates, which are covered with plates of iron. The whole is 
well-built, and to me does not appear the work of Mussulmans. A 
ditch runs by it to the S. W.; near it is a tannery; and further on is a 
row of blacksmiths' forges, which seemed in good employ. In this 
direction (N. E. of the town) is the Custom-house, a spacious building. 
The Pachas residence has a large gate opening into a court-yard. 
The houses are in general built of stone, with rafters of wood, and 
terraced. Grass grows on their tops, and sheep and calves feed there; 
so that, when seen from an eminence, the roofs of the houses can hardly 
be distinguished from the plain at their foundation. I walked through 
most of the bazars ; few are domed, the rest are terraced, like the 
dwellings, but affording a common road for foot-passengers, who 
ascend by a public flight of steps. Wherever a street intervenes, a 
bridge is thrown over, and the line continues uninterrupted. The 
shops in the bazars are well stocked, and the place exhibits an appear¬ 
ance of much industry. The streets are mostly paved; but, as in 
Turkey, in that manner which is more calculated to break the passen¬ 
ger's neck than to ease his feet. There are sixteen baths, and one 
hundred mosques; several of the latter are creditable buildings, the 
domes of which are covered with lead, and ornamented with gilt balls 
and crescents. 
This is the present state of Arz-roum ; its remains prove that it must 
have been still more considerable. Every thing attests the antiquity 
of the place; the inhabitants indeed date the foundation from the 
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