354 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
certainly overcome us in defiance of all our efforts, a few minutes suf- 
fice; and when the strongest paroxysm is over, refresh indeed as much 
as hours in bed. We are seldom aware how little food and how little 
sleep are necessary for health and strength. 
When we left Coja Hissar the weather portended a storm. Dark 
clouds were gathering over the mountains; and as the night closed, we 
now and then only got a glimpse of a star. This proved very favour¬ 
able to us, for we had not rode long before we discovered the numerous 
fires of the Delhis that illuminated the whole of the country to a consi¬ 
derable distance. They were encamped on the opposite side of the 
river to that on which our road lay, so that guarded by the water and 
by the darkness, we passed them without being challenged by a 
single one. 
On the 13th, about one o'clock in the morning, we reached Carajol, 
a distance of eight hours; and departed again to Carajalar , distant 
four hours. It is remarkable that the country from Carajol is entirely 
destitute of trees; losing, as it were by magic, all that variety of foliage 
which characterizes the preceding region. We were detained at Cara¬ 
jalar, from the morning till the evening, by a deficiency of horses. 
Although we gave five piastres for the hire of each, yet it was not till 
we had witnessed a scene of strife and contention amongst the villagers, 
in which there was some blood shed, that we were supplied. The post- 
house had been broken up for some time past; and the burthen, in con¬ 
sequence fell upon the people, who, in their several turns, furnished the 
travellers with horses at the rate of five piastres each; though on every 
emergency there was a similar difficulty to enforce the regular levy in 
succession. As I was waiting for my horses, a deputation from this 
village returned, which had been sent to the Chief of the Delhis for the 
purpose of offering him a certain sum of money, in case he did not re¬ 
main there with his troops longer than one night. The object was at¬ 
tained, though I could not learn the amount of the stipulated payment. 
In this manner the Bey commanding the Delhis enriches himself during 
his march. 
