356 
AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
patches of cultivation were interspersed amongst the ranges of pines 
and other forest trees, that covered the summits and enlivened the de¬ 
clivity of the mountains. 
Geredeh is a large town; at the entrance is a very extensive tannery. 
The shops and coffee-houses of the bazars seemed also well peopled by 
a great number of well-looking Turks, sitting down and enjoying them¬ 
selves with their pipes. We had been taught to apprehend here also 
a second detention for horses, from the great number of Tatars who 
had been passing. One of them indeed had just preceded us ; and had 
left us a part of his meal of fried eggs and soup. The Tatars look upon 
themselves as great personages on the road; and expect proportionate 
attention at the post-houses, which, as I observed, was scarcely ever 
denied to them. The Tatar who accompanied me was so tenacious 
of this consequence of his class, that he always took the best things 
for himself, and treated me as his inferior. Whenever he arrived, a 
soft seat and a cushion were spread for him, and, as he lighted his 
pipe, a dish of coffee was prepared for him; whilst to me he trans¬ 
ferred an indifferent seat and the second dish. The fact is, indeed, 
that my appearance bespoke very little of the master; and I could 
hardly wonder therefore that the Tatar was treated with all the respect 
which I might have expected as due to myself. My black skin cap 
was become very dusty; my silk trowsers were all torn; my Persian 
boots were soaked with rain and twisted under the heel; whilst my 
coat and great coat were all in dirt and in rags. As I did not wish 
to travel in my own character, knowing how extravagantly Frangees 
(and Englishmen in particular) are made to pay, I was well content to 
pass for a Persian: and the little notice that was thus taken of one 
looking so miserable, gave me liberty to walk about and make my obser¬ 
vations at my ease. Of all this contrast of our appearance however, 
my Tatar profited; travelling as a gentleman at my expence, whilst I 
as easily passed for his attendant. 
Prom Geredeh to Boll is twelve hours. On quitting Geredeh we 
crossed one of the most beautiful regions that I had ever seen. It was 
