AMASIA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
357 
a continual garden of vineyards and corn-fields, shaded by walnut 
and oak trees, growing here to a greater size than any that I had 
hitherto found in the country. At very frequent intervals, on each 
side of the road, were large collections of blocks of stone, of different 
shapes, squares, oblongs, and pillars of five or six feet high: several 
with Greek inscriptions upon them. That these spots were ancient 
places of burial is more certain, because there are now mixed among 
them many modern tombstones. There are two inscriptions near the 
durand or guard-house : one, on a column on the left of the road ; and 
one, inserted in a wall on the right. I did not care for the chance of 
decyphering them to stop the rapid progress of our journey, (for we 
now went generally on a full gallop ;) but on coming up to a very 
conspicuous pillar on the side of the road near a fountain, I could not 
neglect the opportunity of copying it, (see plate XXIX.) while our 
horses were drinking. It was terminated by a cross, which was an 
evidence that the monument had some connection with the primitive 
Christians. I wished much to have taken the other inscriptions ; as, 
in general, they seemed legible; but I found that any notice of Greek 
was incompatible with the character of a Persian, and might have 
excited a suspicion of my disguise. As we approached Boli , the 
beauty of the country and the richness of cultivation increased. The 
plain, in which the town is situated, is quite a garden; and was then 
displaying all the lively green of the height of spring, except where the 
ripened corn broke in upon the general verdure. The quantity of 
rain, that had so lately fallen, had left this brilliant freshness on nature; 
but, even without this extraordinary supply, there is never any dearth 
of water. Boli, on the side by which we approached it, is not seen 
until we enter its very streets, as it is situated behind a hill. It is a 
large place surrounded by an open palisade, which indeed is its only 
defence. From the appearance of the streets and bazars the place is 
well peopled. As we galloped into the town in the true haste and 
style of couriers with our surujees (or conductors), making a kind of 
hideous noise to announce our approach, a company of Turkish. 
