243 
CHAPTER XVL 
We departed very early in the morning of the 4 th October, with a 
thick mist that is very common to this part of the Karadagh, but which 
cleared away as the sun arose, and permitted us to enjoy the vicinity of 
a delightful rivulet, which, taking its rise near Ak tappeh, becomes by 
degrees considerable, and at length falls into the Ahar Chai, which 
again adds its stream to the Araxes at Aslandous. We entered upon 
a tract that was overspread with the Eelauts, who kindly received us at 
their tents, and served us up some of the produce of their flocks for 
breakfast. A woman spread carpets for us to sit upon, and lighted up 
a fire of weeds and bulrushes close to us. The women do almost all the 
work amongst these wandering societies, and appear more anxious than 
the men to press their good offices upon the stranger. The spot upon 
which these Eelauts were encamped was a warm region compared with 
the situation of the Prince’s camp; for although we had only proceeded 
from ten to twelve miles from it, yet we found it sensibly warmer. 
Travelling onwards, we met an Indian entirely alone, on foot, with 
no other weapon than a stick, who was on his road to Benares 
returning from his pilgrimage to Baku. He was walking .with sur¬ 
prising alacrity, and saluted us with great good-humour, like one satis¬ 
fied with himself for having done a good action. I believe that these 
religious feats are quite peculiar to the Indian character f for there is a 
great difference between the mind of one who undertakes a voyage to 
Mecca with a caravan, in the company of others,'and of him who undis¬ 
mayed by solitude and distance, and unencouraged by example, perseveres 
in his object to the last. 
In a storm of rain we reached an encampment of Persian cavalry, 
that was situated three fursungs on this side of the Araxes; and I 
took up my quarters in the spacious tent of a Khan, (one of the 
principal commanders,) whilst my baggage, which had preceded me 
during the night, and part of which had fallen into a stream, was drying 
I I 2 
