GOVERNOR OF HAMADAN. 
263 
landscape, we could have found no fault with its picturesque beauties. 
The Persians plant the poplar in preference to other trees, and use it 
for timber. On our departure from Surkliabad to our encampment near 
the city, we first crossed over a bridge, and then passed by Sheveran, a 
village inhabited by Armenians. 
It was here that Plajee Mohamed Hossein Khan, Governor of Ram¬ 
adan and its vicinity, and distinguished by the epithet of Karaguzloo, 
from being the chief of that tribe, had his country residence. He is 
feared by the King as the head of a great tribe, and courted by Maho¬ 
med Ali Mirza, Governor of Kermanshah, on account of the large body 
of cavalry which he can bring to his assistance. He has the reputa¬ 
tion of being a rayat perwar, or protector of the peasant j a fact which 
is confirmed by the cultivated appearance of his territory, although 
denied by certain Armenians, whom he is nevertheless said to patro¬ 
nize. Those of their community to whom we talked, complained in¬ 
deed of his tyranny even to them, and stated that (although only 
twenty families in number) they were daily vexed by his extortions. 
None of them are permitted to leave Hamadan without a written per¬ 
mission, so that their state is little better than a state of bondage. This 
personage has the reputation of being one of the proudest, richest, 
and most powerful men in Persia, and his first acts on the arrival of 
the Embassy tended to confirm it. He refused at first to meet the 
Ambassador on his arrival, feigning himself sick, and offering to send his 
sons and relations in his stead ; but when he was informed that the Am¬ 
bassador would receive no istakball, or deputation, but what was headed 
by himself in person, he judged it right to cede the point. Being 
confined to my tent, I did not make his acquaintance; but he was 
described as a man of excellent manners, free from ostentation; and 
although evidently accustomed to command, yet not negligent of the 
little civilities and attentions due to society. 
Our camp was pitched on an open green spot, called the Cliahar 
Bagh, on the skirts of the city. It required all the vigilance of the 
guards placed around us by the Governor, to keep off the immense 
crowds of the inhabitants that constantly hovered around our tents; for 
