MONASTERY OF ETCHMIATZIN. 
323 
hint was sufficient, and they immediately departed to see what might be 
done. A few days after, the Serdar’s travelling merchant arrived in the 
greatest distress, saying, that as he was proceeding with the caravan 
from Teflis with great quantities of rich goods for the Serdar’s service, 
he had been plundered of every thing by a band of ruffians who had 
assailed the caravan. The Serdar had in fact robbed himself. His 
own goods under the care of the merchant had become the prey of 
his soldiers, and with every inclination to punish them he was obliged 
for his own credit to overlook the offence. 
On the 15th, we pitched our camp at Utch Klisseh, or the three 
churches, as it is called in Turkish, although there are four in number. 
The principal church is called by the Armenians Etchmiatzin, which 
one of the monks explained to us as “ the descent of the only begotten 
son a name so given because they believe that Jesus Christ here ap¬ 
peared to St. Gregory, who was the first Armenian patriarch. 
As we approached the place, the Ambassador was met by the Patri¬ 
arch, who headed a long procession of fat and rosy monks, all dressed 
in black, and black hoods, making an exhibition completely novel to 
us. The Patriarch’s state consisted of three led horses, covered with 
velvet housings, embroidered in gold a la Turque; of three Shatirs 
or running footmen; of a man bearing a flag; of a monk carrying a 
long silver-mounted stick; and of a small crowd of hooded servants. 
He exhibited a fine florid face, that wore all the marks of good living; 
and there was a frankness and benignity of expression about it which 
was prepossessing. His manners and general appearance were those 
of a perfect gentleman ; and this was not to be wondered at, for he was 
a great traveller, and had long frequented the court of Russia, where 
he was held in high estimation. Of this, indeed, he exhibited a proof; 
for one of the first things that struck us in his appearance was a large 
star of the Russian order of St. Anne, with which he had been deco¬ 
rated by the Emperor, and which now glittered on his purple robe. 
T T 2 
