CHESMEH ALL 
369 
Teheran, who seems to keep his peasants in the lowest state of indi¬ 
gence, and seizes from them without compunction every thing but their 
lives. 
The small plain that environs this village bears evidence to the 
miserable existence which its inhabitants lead in times of trouble, and 
particularly during the inroads of the Turcomans. Close to each corn¬ 
field are erected small square fortifications, into which the cultivator 
retires the moment the marauders appear, and thence fires upon them, 
whilst he frequently has the mortification to see his fields laid waste 
under his own eyes. This is the case on all this frontier, and through¬ 
out Khorassan; wherever there is a patch of cultivation, immediately 
a protecting tower is erected close to it. 
26th July.—^We were 71 hours on our road from Foulad Mahaleh to 
Cheshmeh Ali, which we calculated at 32 miles. We first travelled on 
a good road, leading through mountains whose bases were not more 
than a mile separate. They were as usual bare: the same grey rock 
prevailed, particularly on their crests. This was the dryest track we 
had travelled over, almost totally unprovided with water, until we 
reached Cheshmeh Ali, where, indeed, we found a luxuriant abun¬ 
dance of this great blessing. 
At this place we were well recompensed for our former baid 
lodging, by being introduced into one of the King’s summer-houses, 
which has the capability of being rendered a beautiful place, beyond 
any that we had seen in Persia. From under an impending rock issue 
many copious springs of the most limpid water, which form at once 
a large stream. They have been enclosed within walls and towers, 
and are made to flow in a large square basin, across which the build¬ 
ing has been erected. Both sides of the enclosure are planted with 
fruit trees and poplars; and immediately over the springs grow a large 
plane tree, and two aged and picturesque elms. The constant transition 
of water, its extraordinary clearness, and the great size of the basin, 
give the building a delightful freshness : but the instant one goes with¬ 
out the walls, the whole beauty of the scene vanishes, and nothing but 
a horrid desert of dreary mountains is to be seen. Such is the magic 
3 B 
